Polo Bikes

5 sets of elipses joe. Are you obsessed‽

http://www.on-one.co.uk/i/q/SHTIDXZ/time-dxz-freeride-shoes

Not the prettiest, but £20 for SPD compatible trainers is pretty fucken cheap, only a few sizes left

5 sets of elipses joe. Are you obsessed‽

It's how I do, Mr. Seal…

Anyone got any clamp on v-brake mounts going? To fit fork stanchions of roughyl 32mm diameter?

that'll be 31.8mm diameter, it's pretty standard.

they're not bad actually adam. @at other adam ([gorms] what are your new shoes that i spied you wearing the other day. they looked nice.

anyone wanna buy an alfine 8sp, 18t cog incl (and i think i have a 20t somewhere too), and shifter?

£110

dt swiss disc brake centrelock to normal 6 bolt rotor adaptor included, worth about £25

Sold.

An example of more recent "off the shelf" grass polo bikes:

http://www.boxwoodbicyclepolo.com/moncogflt.jpg

http://www.boxwoodbicyclepolo.com/monocoggrn.jpg

http://www.boxwoodbicyclepolo.com/ultra7.JPG

Someone in America should contact Redline and see if they want to get involved with the hardcourt sport.

They don't look specially made to me. And don't have pedals.

anyway, I was on here to post, that Superstar bikes have Disc rotors for cheeeeap, and they are 3mm thick (1mm more than normal), so should last longer for polo. I just got mine in the post, it's BURLY.
http://superstar.tibolts.co.uk/product_info.php?cPath=50&products_id=200

Well, the frames are existing products, but the builds were for grass bike polo as a "purpose built" solution off the shelf (in the 90s it seems).

They also have freewheels, double brakes and not 1-to-1 gear ratios (~35 instead of ~25 inches), I thought it was interesting considering everyone thinks of a grass polo bike as the old fixie skidder, crazy machines like at HH... this simply isn't the case in parts of the world where grass polo is still being played.

true, and yeah, in that respect it's interesting.

Is this still the right thread to ask about upgrades / fixing your bike up?

If so, Seal / Wicksie (or any other disc brake users), any tips on making sure your axle is aligned straight, so the disc brake doesnt 'ellipsis' when its going around through the pads? Mine is slightly off and I am going cross eyed trying to get it exactly straight. Its just about not rubbing off one side now.

Also, Wicksie, you have a similar set up to me now I think (rear disc, front v-brake), the disc should be on a short pull lever, right? Have you got a wheel thing in the front, or are you using a long-pull lever? I've found it difficult to get a decent point where I feel like both of them are getting the same grip at the same time... even with using the barrel adjusters on the rik lever...

i've never noticed issues with the axle kev.

cable discs pull the same amount of cable as a v-brake, (unless they are a new-fangled road/cyclo-x disc caliper). So no, you don't need a travel agent.

BURLY

I love this word...

i've never noticed issues with the axle kev.

cable discs pull the same amount of cable as a v-brake, (unless they are a new-fangled road/cyclo-x disc caliper). So no, you don't need a travel agent.

My axle just got moved a bit in the dropouts, I'd say I just need to sit down with it for ten minutes and sort it out, when I am not in a rush to leave the house.
It was annoying trying to tighten up the bolts so the axle stayed perfectly straight.

Not sure about the model of the caliper I have. Will look it up later. But it didnt look much different to the type of one that you have on your forks.

Anyone seen this? I remember that seat post from Barca. Maybe he made it adjustable to work out dimensions? SB if he's at Konstanz, any chance you could you get some insider info on it?

nice rear end, hark at the thickness of those seat stays

From Max Power's Facebook album:

after extensive research on polo geometries max power cycles proudly present: super mega awesome stuff made in germany. 26", tight geometry, 940/970mm wheelbase (m,s/l), 74,5°HTA, ADJUSTABLE RAKE (-> trail 55/68 mm ), disc brake front and rear (rohloff slider dropouts). rear spacing, cablestops and so on as you like it. available in 3 sizes to people from ~172cm to ~192cm. even if it does not look like it, seat tube effectively is like an s-bent one, position of the saddle comes out almost over the rear axle to allow tight turns. saddle position as you see it in the pictures (but you'll get there with a normal seatpost) incredibly stiff, tough like hell, not too heavy. alloy frame, steel fork (features penis shaped lightweight hole... probably) price: frameset unpainted: 450€ raw frame, fork powdercoated: 470€ frame and fork powdercoated: 500€ probably available, but not tested yet: powdercoated fork, anodised frame: 550€ no serial production, so anyone who might be interested, please message me soon.

Max Power of Monkey Punch fame? He makes cycles? Who knew? He may/may not be in Konstanz last I heard...

^

1. Faster Pussy Cat, Polo Polo! (Karlsruhe) – Stefie / Anouk / Max (Monkey Punch)
   
   

Sounds interesting! I wanna see tophos!

Max has been riding that for well over a year now, so it has been proven to last well.

Didn't realise he was ready for production, that's awesome. Looks like he's already taken a fair few orders, six frames stacked up in the background of one of those pics.

Good spot, the price is right as well. This could be the one. I'd like to see what a large looks like fully built up.

http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.255445231136327.80767.100000125567335&type=1

Good spot, the price is right as well. This could be the one. I'd like to see what a large looks like fully built up.

http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.255445231136327.80767.100000125567335&type=1

Might have missed this, but does anyone feel that having a lower top tube (e.g. sloping) as opposed to horizontal is advantageous? I'm thinking a) if you slip off the saddle you don't land on sensitive parts and b) when you need to bail you can hop over the top tube easily.

I guess I just don't see why that bike doesn't have a sloping top tube. Something to do with construction methods?

I am pro sloping top tube, not at the same degree as the NS jump bikes, but definitely not horizontal.

If you slip and drop 6 inches onto the saddle you might keep rolling and get your feet back on the pedals. If you slip and drop 12 inches, you're probably going down in a tangled mess.

Difference is probably minimal.