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• #527
just seemed like a cheaper alternative to a krik-it which aren't even supposed to be that good
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• #528
What frames compatible with belt drive are available nowadays? something quite compact as I'd use it for polo too.
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• #529
Not to do with running one fixed, but interesting nevertheless.
http://twentynineinches.com/2011/04/26/gates-carbon-drive-extended-verdict/
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• #530
Not to do with running one fixed, but interesting nevertheless.
http://twentynineinches.com/2011/04/26/gates-carbon-drive-extended-verdict/
Must admitt I agree with most of that. Thing is once you've had the system for some time, you become very adept at tensioning the belt. Took me a fair amount of time to get the chainline correct, while at the same time being happy with the set up of the hub spacers and cassette lockring. Ended up removing a spacer from the drive side of the BB. But once this is done its done.
After a year of running the belt SS off-road. I have too say I love it. If I thought for a micro-second that it would skip. I'd bin it. The biggest benefit of singlespeeding off-road is the solidity of the drivetrain. I would'nt sacrifice that.
I grew up riding a BMX around the trails, and woods on the edge or dartmoor. So I have a terrible habit of trying to jump everything technical. I've crashed, bashed the bike all over the place. But I've never thought to glance down to check the belt. Its never moved.
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• #531
I have a 22t shimano 9 spline rear pulley I want to sell. Can anyone tell me the rrp on these or point me in the direction of somewhere that will. Anyone interested in buying? It's brand new but no packaging and a few marks in the powdercoat finish from kicking around in my tool box.
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• #532
I'm going on a frame building course next year and am planning what I'm going to build. Although I love my vintage look frames, this is going to be a modern build with bilam headtube and the rest is fillet brazed. This is when I started thinking of belt drive...
I'm not 100% on it as I am heading towards a complete NJS setup, but do you guys think it's worth adding a seat stay coupler to allow a belt drive for the future? Looking at Phil Wood belt drive, but no idea of price yet or whether it's even worth it.
What are your thoughts?
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• #533
Go for the Fixie Inc. coupler which is cheaper and can be painted so it'll be (almost) invisible;
I'd go for it to be honest, but with wider spacing and dimple chainstay to accept thick cha..beltring.
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• #534
I had seen that fixie inc coupler, but design wise I like the other one I recon.
Currently I'm very torn as I get total chain/cog lust, especially for this:
Has anyone got a fixed belt drive in London? I wouldn't mind having a quick spin around to see if it's worth the investment. But I might just add the coupler anyway in case I ever do sway this way ;)
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• #535
Not fixed but there are a lots of singlespeed Trek that you can try out, even with singlespeed i'm sure you can have a general idea of how it feel.
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• #536
Get the belt system if...
- You want to save weight,
- You want less drivechain maintainance,
- You want a quiet drivechain,
- You want better performance in shitty conditions.
Dont get on if...
- You like classic looking components (its fugly)
- You want to remove your rear wheel often (tensioning is a little trickier)
- You want to chop and change gearing (sprockets, and chainrings are expensive, and you usually need a new belt too)
- You want to save weight,
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• #538
Pretty much finished, just need to change the wooden seat post for a clear acrylic one. Think it looks better, but can chop and change.
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• #539
What. On. Earth.
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• #540
Pretty much finished, just need to change the wooden seat post for a clear acrylic one. Think it looks better, but can chop and change.
I wanna see the after catastrophic crash pictures.
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• #541
oh my god. that is incredible
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• #542
I didn't know Evans sold 27.2mm broomsticks?
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• #543
hold on! fair bloody play, glad to know the frame can be used.
not too sure about the seatpost, but....... -
• #544
Nice idea, but srsly plastic acrylic stuff for bars and' post, no thanks.
Wood is ok, at least you know when thats about to go. -
• #545
Only thing I'd like to see different about h=that bike is a rebate turned in the seatpost so the ali part sits flush with the wood.
I reckon you'd see stress marks in the bars before they snapped.
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• #546
Not really, acrylic can be quite unpredicable especially when cold.
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• #547
It'll predictably horrible to ride with. Nice frame though, is it an Alan or Vitus or something?
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• #548
That's an ALAN. Looks like he has managed to insert the belt by removing the original brake bridge. Those particular frames came with 2 tiny screws on the brake arch, but it was also affixed to the stays using some kind of strong adhesive so i'm not sure how he managed to get that off! I'm guessing destructively ...
otherwise mate, not too shabby an effort - if you get rid of those bars :p
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• #549
I think its a inative build.
You can buy wood bars, designed for the job.
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• #550
I like it.
I also think I'd have to turn in my 'too-cool-for-skool', fully rigid, SS, back to basics off-roader, badge. If I pulled out a sonic tension tester on the trail.