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As far as I remember, the permit is simply something you print off the web page.
I don't mind riding along canals. They can be a bit slow at times, but I quite like an afternoon ride up north along the Lee (up to Waltham Abbey and back). Not too many people, and if you can manage the smell of sewage for a while once you get past Edmonton, it's quite pleasant. Easiest way out of the M25 without dealing with the hell that is London suburbia.