Modular polo mallet head design

Are Perro Poles tapered, i.e. can you jam a nut down them and then screw upwards? If not I need to think of a new fixing method for the poles and head I have ordered.

they are tapered

they are tapered

Good news! Thanks Sandy. I was going to use an M5 bolt and nut. Hope that fits, have to make it in the dark Friday night in a field in Bristol

If the pole is uncut I think most folks use an m6. I had cut my tapered end down so had to use an m8.

Rich, an M6 works great but you may be able to go down to an M5... Let us know if that works, super whippy mallet attack!

Rich, see my earlier post.

So if anyone is interested, I did a bit of experimentation with a Perro pole at Leyland today.

Anything between an M4 and an M8 fits down the shaft from the top, but not from the bottom (when it's not cut).

An M4 nut sits about 5cm from the bottom, roughly where the notch is.
An M5 nut sits about 8cm from the bottom, about 3cm above the notch.
An M6 nut sits about 15cm from the bottom, so well above the notch.

Leyland do 1m rods in all 3 sizes, for about £1.

I'm went with M6, as any lower and you would have to to cut around, or below the notch, and I imagine that's a weak spot.

For long M6 countersunk bolts I had to go to Clerkenwell Screws, they had them up to 100mm in length.

i've got some some m4s and they do sit almost exactly on the notch, gonna wait for some rik poles before I make too many more, gotta make 1 notchy perro 1 at brizzle though

I keep the tapered end and saw the top off instead secured with a wall plug and a screw.

Are Perro Poles tapered, i.e. can you jam a nut down them and then screw upwards? If not I need to think of a new fixing method for the poles and head I have ordered.

i lost a head with a wall plug and screw at the open, was in pretty tight but came off in a mallet yanking competition in the middle of a game, never got my head back either

nut > wall plug

yeah, i bought some nuts

How do people get their nuts in the pole? I had a right faff getting it in there straight so ended up feeding it down an outercable. Perfect size.

M6 rod.

Thread the nut onto the end of the rod, drop the rod down, pull out the other end until the nut gets stuck. Unscrew the rod and pull it out.

Science, innit?

Yep, that's the sort of knowledge an A level in Physics gives you...

i used a very similar method, i'll outline it here

M4 rod.

Thread the nut onto the end of the rod, drop the rod down, pull out the other end until the nut gets stuck. Unscrew the rod and pull it out.

The joys of being too poor to justify buying threaded rod to line up a nut.

Why not drop the bolt from the top and use a top-hat shape recessed nut? Struggling to work out the proper name for it to find a webpage...

You then have to cut off the excess thread, easier to tighten the bolt and forget about it.

Or to follow up your idea use one of these which are used in cabinet making

i got enough nuts and bolts for 10 mallets and some rod for about £5
http://modelfixings.com/

The joys of being too poor to justify buying threaded rod to line up a nut.

a 1M rod of M6 costs £1...

Not around here it's not, also I've then got a threaded bar hanging around doing nothing. I see where you're coming from but my money situation right now isn't the best.

Do you guys heat the top of the pole after you have filed the crown in it? Also do you file a spikey crown \/\/\/\/ or a square one || || |_|

Why would you heat it, Rich? I go spikey on mine... I heat the mallet head around the hole and make sure the hole is 1-2mm smaller than the diameter of the pole going in... Careful you don't crack the pipe tho'...

Last time I heated the crown as I installed it into the head so that it would melt into plastic. So it went: heat, install, screw so when the screw turned it helped the crown bed into the mallet