Chain & Rear Cog Buggered

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  • Last two services of my Fuji track required a new Chain and Rear cog.
    I've started to hear the tell tale cracking sound from the chain again!
    Its been less than 6 months - I shouldn't be replacing my chain that often?

    It was suggested I had my chain too tight but it wasn't overly before.
    I cycle to work on it most days 20 miles or so.
    I don't skid and I don't track stand.

    Any ideas as to why going through chains so fast?

  • Not sure if it's even worth asking: sure you've got the same size chain, cog and chain ring?
    Also, checking chain alignment may help.
    I've had my fuji for 2 years now, done more than 1000 miles on it and chain/cog/chain ring are all in good shape. And I do run them quite tight.

  • 6 months sound normal to replace a chain.

    if you don't look after your chain, you'll wear them out, 20 miles a day is enough to do so.

    if you put too much oil on the chain - it cause the dirt to stick to the chain and wear out the drivetrain faster.

    never run them tight, tight wear them out faster, best to have it a bit slack than too tight.

    I replace mine every 6 months (including the usual oiling) to avoid wear and tear to the sprocket and chainring as they cost more to replace.

  • But didn't you once say you never actually clean your chain Ed, just re-oil it?

  • How often do you clean your chain? How tight is it?

  • But didn't you once say you never actually clean your chain Ed, just re-oil it?

    I did, till it snapped.

  • Ah

  • Good batch of PCP today.

  • It's a tale as old as time.

    Right...on the chain subject, I'm trying to replace a chain for the first time ever....so far so good (apart from taking out too many links) but trying to get the chain back together with a SRAM power link is driving me crazy. I've read the instructions etc etc but I can't get it to come together.

    Is there some sort of knack I'm missing?

  • Yes. Now try again until you find the knack.

  • Thanks. Have you got a link to a YouTube vid or anything. Or should I just search for "keep trying"?

  • Slot the link pieces in place on either side, then pull the chain on either side (hard) to create tension which makes the link pins lock in place.

  • even with a single speed/fixed gear?

  • How often do you clean your chain? How tight is it?

    I never clean my chain.. whats the process?
    I never oil my chain.. Heard it was bad practice?

    Its not that tight.. I use an old tennis ball in back wheel to tighten - still has a couple of mm of travel up and down.

  • put chain together with the wheel loose in the dropouts, thread onto cog and chainring, set wheel, tighten.

  • even with a single speed/fixed gear?

    The PC-1 chain possibly comes with different types of master link. The SRAM Powerlink is what I was describing fitting before.

    How many pieces is the master link made from? There are 3-piece types that you fix on using a clip, and also 2-piece types which simply snap on.

    You can see the different types listed for sale here with pictures. The ones on the left are what people would tend to describe as a "Powerlink".

    http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/KMC-Genuine-Joining-Missing-Cycle-Chain-Link-any-Bike-/230547647032?pt=UK_sportsleisure_cycling_bikeparts_SR&var=&hash=item7b6780f51a#ht_1901wt_906

  • I never clean my chain.. whats the process?
    I never oil my chain.. Heard it was bad practice?

    That's why.

  • Petrol is a very effective chain cleaner. Either take off the chain and put it in a bucket/tray or something with the petrol or leave the chain on but stand the bike over the tray. Then use a paintbrush to scoop up some petrol and brush the shite off the chain with it. This will leave the chain VERY clean, so put some spray lube on it afterwards, don't run it dry.

  • Petrol is a very effective chain cleaner. Either take off the chain and put it in a bucket/tray or something with the petrol or leave the chain on but stand the bike over the tray. Then use a paintbrush to scoop up some petrol and brush the shite off the chain with it. This will leave the chain VERY clean, so put some spray lube on it afterwards, don't run it dry.

    Thanks for the chain cleaning tip - I'm definately going to give my chain some love

    But using Petrol is the Cheapest method???
    I don't own a car but im told by people that do that its expensive stuff.

    Also really don't want to be storing cans of smelly petrol in my flat
    Think i'll buy one of those fancy kits ive seen.

  • You can reuse it over and over because all the crap settles at the bottom, then decant slowly to get rid of it. Storing indoors is really not wise I agree, a shed or outside is better. Maybe diesel would be cheaper? You don't need very much, just make sure it doesn't evaporate

  • I'm going to clean my chain with white spirit for the first time this weekend. Unbelievable how dirty they get riding in the wet, especially if you use anything but dry lube.

  • I never clean my chain.. whats the process?
    I never oil my chain.. Heard it was bad practice?
    Its not that tight.. I use an old tennis ball in back wheel to tighten - still has a couple of mm of travel up and down.

    There's 3 reasons why your chains are wearing out. Whoever you've been listening to is thick.

    Wipe your chain clean. I use old t-shirts. Lightly lube with proper chain lube. Wipe again.

    You should have a good 5mm each way when moving the chain up and down. Your chain as it is sounds too tight. Wear factor plus.

  • Petrol is a very effective chain cleaner. Either take off the chain and put it in a bucket/tray or something with the petrol or leave the chain on but stand the bike over the tray. Then use a paintbrush to scoop up some petrol and brush the shite off the chain with it. This will leave the chain VERY clean, so put some spray lube on it afterwards, don't run it dry.

    Don't use petrol. It's bad for you and the environment.
    I never do bathing chain cleans nowadays anyway. Too much fucking about for little return.

  • on MTB the normal fayre is...

    3 chains + 1 cassette + 1 set chainrings
    1000miles per chain on average, run in monthly rotation.

    On road/track I would assume you get the same 3 chains of wear out of the chainrings. otherwise when you put the 4th chain & cog on, the chainring is killing the chain prematurely?
    Drivechain wear is like a disease, it spreads faster, harder and more painfully than you can believe.

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Chain & Rear Cog Buggered

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