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@andyp
Varenna is nice, that's where we stayed when I did the GF Marco Pantani, which was most of the route you've done but starts and finishes in Aprica. It does the Gavia first, then the Mortirolo which was horrible, but at least I did the Gavia feeling fresh. That said, I think I got a bit carried away and rode it too hard, meaning the Mortirolo was even harder than it might have been. I swore lots too.