• Where can I get a cheap crank? I already have old chainrings knocking about but need a new crank quick sharp? Any Ideas?

  • shoplift one from evans.

  • srsly
    CX ray: are they for radial only? Can you use them without filing the hub's holes?

  • Can anyone recommend me a rear mudguard? Minimalist as possible please.

    Ta x

  • hi vanuden, got some of these spare, the front 1950's type, but they are same for front and back, silver and black, old but restored, look really good....if you like that kind of thing, interested ?


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    • raleighsml.jpg
  • ^ thanks for the offer ss it's for quite a modern conversion though, not sure they'd fit, cheers all the same.

  • does anybody know of a 20h rear hub out there on the interweb that could be a good purchase?

  • Good idea for a thread! I'm after some

    inane asking people what to buy

    advice myself - specifically on spokes.

    I'm building a set of nice road going fixed wheels. They'll only be used on the road as I've got some other wheels for the track. I've got some Mack hubs coming eventually and probably going to couple them with some open pros but don't have the first idea what spokes to get. I've only bought cheap spokes in the past but I've only ever built cheap wheels.

    Aero is obviously not much of a priority as they're going to 3x laced 32h with low profile rims but what should I priotise - lightness, quality? I don't mind spending a bit as I'm throwing money at the other parts but would love some recommendations.

  • Standard double butted DT Swiss or Alipna seem to be quite sufficient in my experience.

  • I'd just go with the ACI, based on price. There really is'nt much difference between them. My favourate are the Sapim Race. But again the price difference is in mo way justified IMHO.

    DT comp, Sapim race, Wheelsmith DB 14, Pillar PSR TB 2018, and ACI DB are all roughly the same weight, all look the same, and have comparable strengths.

    There is a post by mdcctester somewhere where he mentions some Sapim spokes that are the shit (CX-RAY from the look of the weights), and more or less says get those ones or get the ACI's as everything inbetween is basically the same in terms of weight and quality. That may or may not be worth something, but it would be worth looking at the weight differences between those spokes. Especially given the degree to which expensive spokes add to the price of your wheel build.

    Also I'd look at the new Velocity A32's, as they're wider, or some of the DT rims. Especially given all the recent interweb rumours about OP's recent variation in quality. Plus they come in more drilling sizes if you're getting mach hubs.

  • Could I ask what people are recommending for grips at the moment? I want some simple looking ones that won't fall apart for use on flat bars.

  • I bought some of these. They were well cheap, some people say they break, I have not found that they do. Also - lots of colours!

  • I'm thinking of getting a fixie to get around London but I hate carrying a rucksack - any advice on where I can but one with a rack for panniers? (I know it ruins the look!)

    Beth

  • Search for the definitive list of lists.

    In there there will be a list of otp's. You can then check which of those have mounts. Not many will have a rear rack as standard, so you'll just have to buy an additional one.

    I think the specialized Globe Roll(?) has a built in rack.

    If I were you I'd look at something like the Alu langster as I had mounts and mudgaurd clearance.

    http://www.lfgss.com/thread11148.html

  • I'm thinking of getting a fixie to get around London but I hate carrying a rucksack - any advice on where I can but one with a rack for panniers? (I know it ruins the look!)

    Beth

    Carter at the bicycle library has some cool fixies with racks, baskets and all sorts, its worth checking it out just for fun, really cool place!

  • I also have a question!
    I'm currently riding fixed with no brakes on a road frame (and i keep hitting the pedal on the floor and being close to killing myself) and am planning on getting a track frame.
    The grand dilemma is: Leader 725 -- Tokyo Fixed Gear's S2 -- or the BLB track frame ????
    Opinions, plusses and cons would really help a lot!! Im not very educate in bike geometry so if mentioned I'd appreciate simpleness :) (i dont really care about looks btw)
    Thanks a lot!

  • The grand dilemma is: Leader 725 -- Tokyo Fixed Gear's S2 -- or the BLB track frame ????

    You will be able to find info on Leaders and BLB by searching. I haven't ridden any of them, so I can't speak from personal experience on the frames. But the first thing you should do is make a list of things you like and don't like about your current frame / bike.

    Points to think about while you're riding your bike imo are:

    • stiffness - how quick the power feels like it gets transferred vs your bones being shaken to bits, where do you think your balance is.
    • steering / responsiveness - do you notice it feeling slow, what do you feel would constitute as being too twitchy.
    • stem choice - threadless/ahead vs. threaded. If you've got a 1" threaded / quill at the moment do you notice or care about how much your bars flex? Does the lack of ease of changing bars and stems bother you?

    Thinking about the above will better infom your decision on what frame you should get.

    From a quick look at the frames you've chosen they seem run through the spectrum. My thoughts would be...

    - Leader 725
    I don't know if it's alu or steel, but it looks like a track specific stiff, probably heavy frame. Look at what people who have them on here think by searching.
    **

    • BLB track frame **
      Lots of people have used them, the general consensus is they're the same as the IRO's, so search for those, and see what ppl say. Out of the ones you've shortlisted I'd go for that. Threadless headset, fairly cheap, looks clean, i'd *guess *it would be a good balance between stiffness and comfort.
      **
    • Tokyo Fixed Gear's S2**
      It looks like a classic track frame. So 1" threaded, but track geo. Personally I like the high riding position track frames give in the city. But paying for a new frame with a quill stem seems a bit silly to me. Plus if your budget goes up to £350 I'd look on here and ebay and buy a second hand Condor Pista. Much better than all of those imo.
  • I also have a question!
    I'm currently riding fixed with no brakes on a road frame (and i keep hitting the pedal on the floor and being close to killing myself) and am planning on getting a track frame.
    The grand dilemma is: Leader 725 -- Tokyo Fixed Gear's S2 -- or the BLB track frame ????
    Opinions, plusses and cons would really help a lot!! Im not very educate in bike geometry so if mentioned I'd appreciate simpleness :) (i dont really care about looks btw)
    Thanks a lot!

    Cycle training, have you considered it?

  • I'm new to LFGSS so I hope it really is okay to ask questions here - if not, I'm going to get yelled at! Also, is it true that some people don't like fixed-gear bikes being called 'fixies'? Why?

    Anyway, I’m planning to treat myself to a fixed-gear bike for road use, but not everyday commuting. I am 6’2” and about 185 lbs. I can see two obvious options:-

    • ‘modern classic italian’ – Pegoretti Luigino frame, new and NOS Campy Pista / Record and Cinelli components

    • 'full keirin' – Nagasawa frame, Hatta / Sugino / EAI / Izumi / Dura Ace / Araya / Nitto / MKS components

    Any views on which would work out better or whether there are other, better alternatives?

    Thanks.

  • it's the same reason why road cyclist don't like being called a 'roadie'.

    If you can afford it, go for Pegoretti, seriously, I can't believed you have to even think about it, it's fucking Pegoretti.

  • I looked it up and the Pegoretti doesn't seem to have track ends? If it's vertical dropouts only, then stay well clear. Full keirin is cool but not necessarily practical. They're also not abundent in your size. If you have a lot of cash to spend (you'd better if you were planning on getting a Pegoretti or Nagasawa), you might want to take a look at Feather Cycles, that guy does awesome custom frames and he will be able to build you exactly what you want.

  • It's a Pegoretti mate, a Pegoretti, it mean you can go lady gaga on whatever you want, cause it's a fucking Pegoretti.

  • Thanks for the responses.

    I understand about 'fixie' now!

    What you said about the frames was interesting. I'm told that the Luigino model from Pegoretti would be a good candidate because it is lugged with slightly over-sized tubes and can be had in track form. I'll check out Feather.

    Prices are also interesting - BLB is saying about £1,900 for the Pegoretti in standard custom specification and Tokyo Fixed is saying the same price for a new custom Nagasawa. Given that, I get the definite impression that you guys would both go for the Pegoretti?

    What do you think of the 'all-Campy' approach? Or would you go for the best contemporary parts, wherever from?

    Thanks again.

  • I'd go for modern parts. On the whole they are better.

    If it's not every day* I'd say go for the full campag (*not *campy), then use a deda finishing kit. Silver drive train/hubs spokes, and then black carbon for the seatpost, stem, bars.


    • not because of campag parts in general, but just because you'd want matching hubs and they're not sealed (I think?).
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What should I buy? Frame wheels cranks bars tyres mudguards grips pedals spokes bike

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