Ah the old how tight questions. Tricky to answer on the internet.
You just need to make sure the locknut doesn't come untightened from the cone, throwing out your nice adjustment on the cone which takes ages to get right. Although solid axles are easier than QR axles to adjust.
Well, I use the standard Park Tools home workshop cone spanners which are 4" or so long, and I do them up "firmly". They are thin metal wrenches, they aren't digging into my hand or hurting or anything like that. Not putting any body weight through. Just snugged down and then an extra 1/8th of a turn I guess. Think more "stem bolt clamp" than "bottom bracket" :o)
I'm not sure about seizing the bearings... If one of the locknuts comes undone the rim will start moving laterally on the hub, which will just feel nasty to ride on and if left (for a long time) will lead to failure of the cone/cup surfaces.
Ah the old how tight questions. Tricky to answer on the internet.
You just need to make sure the locknut doesn't come untightened from the cone, throwing out your nice adjustment on the cone which takes ages to get right. Although solid axles are easier than QR axles to adjust.
Well, I use the standard Park Tools home workshop cone spanners which are 4" or so long, and I do them up "firmly". They are thin metal wrenches, they aren't digging into my hand or hurting or anything like that. Not putting any body weight through. Just snugged down and then an extra 1/8th of a turn I guess. Think more "stem bolt clamp" than "bottom bracket" :o)
I'm not sure about seizing the bearings... If one of the locknuts comes undone the rim will start moving laterally on the hub, which will just feel nasty to ride on and if left (for a long time) will lead to failure of the cone/cup surfaces.