anyone set up a home network?

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  • Hi,anyone cabled up their house or flat as a network? We're moving soon to a place that needs a pretty full refurb and I thought i'd cable it up. I know wireless exists but cable should be faster and my life's too short for the ongoing battle with wireless and changing standards. I'm thinking 2 cables to each room and a couple to the TV / stereo. I've not got any equipment to stream tv or music but it's future proofing I suppose.

    I think i need to run all cables from one point and get a switch from that point. Also, i think i'm going to use cat6a cable. Bit more than than cat5 but the cable costs are tiny copaired to the labour.

    Anyone done this? Do I need a 'specialist' or is it easy to terminate / connect everything myself?

    Just thought i'd consult the 2 wheled oracle for advice.

    B.

  • I'm looking into a similar project at the moment and found this site quite useful http://www.structuredhomewiring.com/


  • Works well.

    (try av forums)

  • You could also look at power line Ethernet, if you wanted an easier life.

  • I've used a powerline system for about a year but it broke a week or so ago. It is good but I think cables are better if I have the chance to do it. Those powerline plugs got so hot - well, the ones I had did - that i'm not surprised it fried itself. Cables just seem easy if i get the chance to do it.

    Good idea on conduit, i'll run one to the tv/livingroom at least. You can buy fiber cable at the moment, it's not even that expensive so I suppose you could just run it and leave it in for the future if you wanted.

    The issue is that all the cable etc. is relatively cheap and if you are refurbing it's easy to run but to try and do it later or in a finished house would be a nightmare / very expensive.

    I'll check out those links, thanks,

    B.

  • Breath of fresh air mate. Always recommend going cabled if you have the chance, with wireless as the next option down. You can often spends days trying to figure out signal strength and if you're in a busy area you might be fighting with over 20 other networks (done some WestEnd set ups and believe me it's true). Personally I'm not keen on wireless at all but I understand the practicalities (or not) of running cable in some situations. I do run my iTunes and other stuff to my hifi wirelessly though.

    Cable runs are normally done with solid wires rather than stranded which are for patch boards. Don't think it really matters but you might find solid easier to push through and cheaper by the reel. Don't go to the high street though. Try someone like CableMonkey of Google.

    Conduit a good idea, oversized too. Perhaps even leave a length of string in there in case you later want to pull another cable through.

    Terminations can be a bit of a fiddle but there's plenty of on-line tutorials. You'll prob screw the first few up but with a bit of practice it's ok.

    Label both ends! What's obvious to you now won't be next year.

    "Domestic" switches usually have their RJ45's on the rear, "Office/Pro" switches have them on the front as they are usually mounted in a rack with a patch panel. 8 port is prob ok for a small domestic set up but it's surprising how quickly your needs can ramp up - printer, AV, internet phones, etc. Switches are relatively cheap these days but think about a bit of headroom.

    Router: will probably have 4 x RJ45s on it anyway. Maybe that'll be enough. Will likely also have wireless too, subject to comments above. Can be handy for visitors.

    UPS: Uninterruptible Power Supply. Can't tell you how many power outs I've had. I have my phone, router and laptop running off a UPS that I completely forget about until it kicks in.

  • cheers for that. Good advice. How do you check they are all correctlt terminated? Is there a tester you can stick on it? or do you just go through each with a laptop? I'm just wondering if you can test which of the 8 cores is an issue?

    I assume you are a network engineer or something?

    Want a days work...

    B.

  • OK, thanks. So is cat 6a a good choice? Can you get higher rated cables or is that pointless?

    And i checked some of those links, which were useful. But now i'm more confused...Can someone tell me why i'd need a patch panel? As opposed to just a switch with a load of ports?

    Thanks again,

    B.

  • Too old for scrambling around under floors I'm afraid but if you google "how to terminate cat 5 cable" for example, you'll find plenty of tutorials on how to make up your cables.

    The fiddly bit that needs practice is stripping enough sleeve to fan the wires out so that they slide into the RJ45 plug nicely ready for crimping. You will screw a few up until you get it right.

    You don't need a patch panel - that's for large networks. (You might have seen wiring cabinets that look something like old telephone patch panels. They enable engineers to swap which switch outlets go to which wall outlets without having to rerun the cable.)

    You can get cable testers but it's probably not worthwhile for you as this sounds like a one-off.

    Start with some cheap pre made patch leads (www.cablemonkey.com)

    1 x working broadband connection

    1 x router

    1 x 8 port switch (optional, maybe your router has 4 ports)

    Check you can email/browse etc.

    Make up a cable of your own and substitute into the the test set up above. If it works have a beer if it doesn't check the colours in the RJ45s and that the gold IDC (insulation displacement connector) pins have cut through each colour. Any doubt, cut off the RJ45 and try again until it works. Do each of your cables this way

    Depending on your specific layout, you may need to run bare wires through gaps, floorboards, conduit, whatever. If so terminate and check each cable as you go. If you get lost, revert to your known good patch leads to verify the internet connection is still working.

    Patience and work slowly. Think of it like crossing a stream using stepping stones. Never take the next step without being sure of your footing. Don't try to take two steps at once. Hope that doesn't sound patronising but I so often see folks who will conveniently ignore something wrong and carry on, only to compound the problem with another mistake.

    No need for Cat6 but no harm either.

    I've just noticed one flaw in the above. If you make too many mistakes you will have had too many beers so maybe best to leave it for a while.

  • Forgot to mention, if your house/flat is not too big it might be easier just buying pre made cables of up to around 20m which may be enough for you. What's more they're guaranteed. If they don't work send 'em back. Only prob might be feeding terminated cables through your cable runs. Up to you.

  • That's all very sensible- and there is the problem.

    Cable the entire place, terminating as you go- *never *test before installing.

    If you have faith then it will all work fine, first time, straight off.

    Only if you are infirm of purpose will you fail.

  • I do run my iTunes and other stuff to my hifi wirelessly though.

    How do you do this? Just finished (what a piece of work) sticking all my cd's onto a Nas. I can get it to ipods / ipads / xbox (uPNP / DLNA via a media server on the NAS), but whats the best way to get it wirelessly to a stereo? I don't really want to spend £300 ish on a squeezebox - I was thinking of using a soon to be out of contract iphone as a receptor to the stereo but this seems a bit scrappy.

  • whats the best way to get it wirelessly to a stereo?

    Since I'm Mac I use Airport Express (around £90?). It has an ethernet port that goes to your network and then phono ports to go to your hifi, eg aux inputs. iTunes can use this but to stream anything else (I use a tv tuner and sw called eyeTV) I also use Airfoil.

    iTunes under Windows could still use an Airport Express but I'm sure there are devotees of that platform that can be better help than me.

  • I've heard good things about these:
    http://www.dabs.com/products/d-link-boxee-box-by-d-link-75ZK.html

    will also get all the internet radio stations, i -player etc, and you can stream i-player or any other site to your TV. Also catalogues and updates all the stuff on your NAS for easy location.

    Can't say I know much about them but you do seem to get alot for your money.

    As for the cables, i'm hopeing to terminate them in regular socket boxes with just the sockets on the face. I think these will need to be made up on site but i'll look into the pre made option as it sounds good for someone with my skill level...

    B.

    B.

  • I've heard good things about these:
    http://www.dabs.com/products/d-link-boxee-box-by-d-link-75ZK.html

    hmmm - thanks, that's interesting. Not ideal for stereos I guess as by the looks of it you'd have to turn on the tv to be able to choose what to play but might do the job for films I'm sticking on the NAS - the xbox I'm currently using to stream them through to the TV seems to be a little picky about what formats it will play.

    edit: in fact, I wonder if you can get the boxee software onto a sheevaplug...

  • Forget that Airport Express is a Mac product (please, can't be arsed with platform prefs), it's a cheap interface between wired ethernet, wifi and hifi, £79.

    The usual complaint with audio streaming to it is that it only works with iTunes. I mentioned that I get around this with a bit of software called Airfoil which I've just discovered is available for windows too $25.

    Airfoil can capture what ever audio you have running on your Mac/PC and broadcast it to a variety of end devices, one of which can be an Airport Express.

    Job done for around £100 (plus providing a wireless access point if that's useful). It's not much more than a large three pin plug so if you want to take it with you anyplace you can stream your whole collection to anything with a phono input.

    Downside? Apart from volume on your hifi, control is via your computer, track selection etc. Ok if you laptop is next to you, otherwise a bit clunky.

  • Thanks, I'm after something that can sit on the stereo and be used to control tracks so that the only other piece of kit that needs to be turned on is the NAS (with it's own media server) and the stereo itself; so while an iphone with AirPlayer (dlna client) permanently plugged into the stereo works, it's a bit naff looking and clunky, and the UI is not that great. I guess I'm after a dlna 'box' with an input selector, something like the squeezebox would work but it's not cheap.

    Incidentally, I had a look in the B&O shop next to work - they seem to have a similar setup for squirting music around the house, which I presume is DLNA or some proprietory version and which costs £100-£1000s :)

    This has nothing to do with wired networks - apologies if I'm derailing this thread a bit :)

  • it's a bit naff looking and clunky, and the UI is not that great

    True dat. Out of further input for you. Although I've just found out that I can play my iPhone out to my hifi via AirportExpress too. Neat.

  • Yeah - cheers though :)

    I'm a bit surpirsed there aren't more options, it was surprisingly easy to set up and it's pretty cool (geek) being able to it pick all up on any device.

  • If you're wiring your house with wall sockets you can get a lot of stuff from Maplin:

    http://www.maplin.co.uk/cables/computer-cables-hubs-and-switches/modular-wall-accessories

    Also, you'll need to get a punch tool for fitting the cables to the sockets:

    http://www.maplin.co.uk/telecom-impact-tool-10339

    (I'm sure you could find one cheaper)

    You'll need an RJ45 crimp tool for fixing plugs on the opposite end of the cables, and can be had quite cheap (as Tiswas showed earlier).

    Often, the wall sockets will have the wiring colour coding on the back, so it's quite fool proof to get the cable pairs wired correctly. If not, this page covers it:

    http://www.dragon-it.co.uk/files/cat5_colour_codes.htm

    Personally, I would look at where your router is, and consider if it's easier to wire sockets back to that point, and have a gigabit switch at that location (5 or 8 port switches can be had for £20 these days). If not, look for a central place for the switch, with power, and wire at all back to that point, including a link to your router.

    Often, switches will have an "Uplink" port; usually port 1. It's best to use that port to connect to your router (but not essential). With a gig switch, and Cat6 cable you're in the best position for future tech upgrades :) Most PCs and netbooks/laptops have gig network cards these days.

    Hope that helps :)

  • It's "Krone".

  • I'd recommend buying an rj-45 end to end cable tester, very handy. You can get the crimp tool, tester and a bag of 100 rj45 conns for under £15 from eBay sellers. http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Main_Index/index.html are good for buying wall sockets, patch panels etc and have shop outlets.
    My 4-port ADSL router is on the first floor. I ran an RJ45 cable to the loft, and another to ground floor wired to 8 port switch. From 8 port switch, to mediaPC/ps2/dvd/tv and two wall sockets.

  • For streaming music, quite a few of the new amps are network ready I think so you just plug them into your network and select tracks through the amp. I know plenty of the AV amps are. Most of the onkyo ones and they aren't too expensive. Unless you already have a great amp you want to use it might be an option.

    Will check out all those links above as well, thanks for the tips, all very useful. I might even be able to do it all myself...

    B.

  • Does anyone know what the difference between cat6a from ebay at something like 150 quid for 300m and the ones that are about 500 quid for the same quantity? Should I just buy the most expensive one i can afford (i know some are shielded etc) or do I just buy the cheapest? Are they all the same?

    B.

  • If you're wiring your house with wall sockets you can get a lot of stuff from Maplin:

    http://www.maplin.co.uk/cables/computer-cables-hubs-and-switches/modular-wall-accessories

    Also, you'll need to get a punch tool for fitting the cables to the sockets:

    http://www.maplin.co.uk/telecom-impact-tool-10339

    (I'm sure you could find one cheaper)

    You'll need an RJ45 crimp tool for fixing plugs on the opposite end of the cables, and can be had quite cheap (as Tiswas showed earlier).

    Often, the wall sockets will have the wiring colour coding on the back, so it's quite fool proof to get the cable pairs wired correctly. If not, this page covers it:

    http://www.dragon-it.co.uk/files/cat5_colour_codes.htm

    Personally, I would look at where your router is, and consider if it's easier to wire sockets back to that point, and have a gigabit switch at that location (5 or 8 port switches can be had for £20 these days). If not, look for a central place for the switch, with power, and wire at all back to that point, including a link to your router.

    Often, switches will have an "Uplink" port; usually port 1. It's best to use that port to connect to your router (but not essential). With a gig switch, and Cat6 cable you're in the best position for future tech upgrades :) Most PCs and netbooks/laptops have gig network cards these days.

    Hope that helps :)

    Good info here.

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anyone set up a home network?

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