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• #2
Sounds like it could be:
- a chain tension issue - too tight or loose
- chainline issue - new hub is not on the same chainline or your cranks/bb are loose
- bent chainring on the crank
All three check out?
- a chain tension issue - too tight or loose
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• #3
thanks
bb has been out , chainrings are fine, and my tensioning is fine with a tugnut on the rear.
it is a acor flip/flop hub..... tbh im not happy with the build of it.... im just not sure if the build would effect the way the chainlines
the issue is def at the hub, i can see wear against the teeth
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• #4
sounds like your chain line is out....measure it
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• #5
so the freewheel sat on the standard hub ok , however swapping it over to the new acor hub the chain line is possibly out ?
which would require a shim ?
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• #6
do you think that the acor hubs isnt the correct one for my langster ?
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• #7
just measure the chainline, have a look to see if it's perfectly straight.
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• #8
teeth on the front chainring and rear cog maybe very worn thus causing slippage / jumping ? check the allignment of the teeth and how pointy they are
the older the teeth the more damaged they will be ( like humans in a way ) -
• #9
I have had this issue and it was due to worn teeth, but I was riding fixed, never heard of it happening on a freewheel (unless its really old?) can you see where it gets thrown? I spent ages in the park going in circles, sprinting up and down to see if it threw it on the chain ring or the cog.
Also how old is your chain?
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• #10
The chain is brand new , the freewheel doesn't have many miles on it , also put a brand new dx freewheel on it same thing
The only thing that has changed since it started is this back wheel replacement , when the stock wheel was on , no issues
The acor hub has for me been the start of the issues , however I would have thought it should have been fine .
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• #11
^That was my next thought. If you have a single chain tug for tension then you may have knocked the wheel out of alignment focusing on the chain tension.
Or perhaps the freewheel was crossthreaded on installation and it's crooked.
Do you have pics?
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• #12
Let's not derail this until we have pics - then we can photoshop squirrels, traffic cones, clowns and national monuments into the drivetrain at our leisure.
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• #13
Yeah there is a tugnut on it . Def something going on with alignment
Checked threads everything is fine .
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• #14
Pics?
And is it safe to assume you've had a look at the sheldon brown chainline article? http://www.sheldonbrown.com/chainline.html
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• #15
I will sort out some pics, when I'm home . The chain done a couple of spokes so it's going back to where it was built first
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• #16
http://img402.imageshack.us/img402/2167/lang3c.jpg
http://img94.imageshack.us/img94/9246/lang1r.jpg
http://img684.imageshack.us/img684/5649/lang2.jpgcrap quality from my iphone, i did have a 1/8 chain however the one in the pic is a halflink
feel free to photoshop with pictures of the "crankies" etc :)
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• #17
forgot the wheel in the pic is the standard langster alex wheel , the other wheel is off the bike in away at the shop for assessment
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• #18
Hi , turns out the freewheel was oval so the chain was going up and down , new one & Izumi chain has solved the prob . Thanks for advice
hi
here is my issue
i recently put a new rear wheel on my 2010 langster
i have been running it on the shimano freewheel. I purchased a new dx freewheel ans fitted with a new 1/8 chain, straight away i noticed cracking & popping sounds from the chain
then the chain began to throw, both inside and out,
i changed the freewheel over to the older one and it threw again. it maily happened when you stood up on the pedals and powered.
the chain never came off when i had the old alex rim on the rear
i have checked everthing , everything is ok , the only new factor is this rim
i should also add they when i got this rim , it hadnt been built corrected and had a flat spot, took it back and they sorted it.... i know believe the catalyst to the issue is the crappy wheel
any thoughts
ta
Baz