-
• #47627
Jambon - Have you looked at the Black Nitto adaptor? It's a bit pricey i guess, but well made and would perhaps aesthetically be an option. I used one for my Roberts, but then soon after found the ideal quill/bars set-up. Depending on the stem (i had a tomson x2) there will be a bit of the adaptor exposed. maybe a little less messy?
If you're keeping it Quill, I've got a black XA Stem you might like to try? 115mm iirc
edit - also can confirm the rake on EC90's as 43mm and the wound-ups as 30-5mm
I'm using a deda elementi spada quill adaptor at the moment, it does the job but as i said it doesn't look too smart. This'll be the case with most converters i guess.
To make it look slightly better i made this black plastic collar to cover the top of the threaded silver headset.http://www.flickr.com/photos/49138502@N04/5876499159/sizes/l/in/photostream/
Thanks for the offer of the stem but it may be slightly too long. Think what i'll do is see how the converter gets on, then if it's so bad i'll go to a nice quill system as a stop gap.
Buy Sotto Voce. Fit X2. All will be right..:)
Ben you still use/have the x2?+1 on the Sotto Voce that's always been a must, and X2's are growing on me. Quite a bit of wedge though. In time.
-
• #47628
edit - can confirm the EC90's as 43mm and the W****d up's a bit less 30 or 35mm i think.
Wound-Up track forks are 35mm, 700c road forks are 40/45/48mm, both are 365mm axle to crown. http://www.woundupcomposites.com/specs.html
They are about the only people still making high quality 1" non-steel forks, although none of their forks is strictly full carbon, and I wouldn't even bother with the carbon steerer for a track bike, the steel one is fine and less hassle.
-
• #47629
40mm rake and steal, but straight and threadless.
![](http://i.ebayimg.com/13/!Bpn8Y6!!2k~$(KGrHqEH-DsEu(,+eWITBLsM7zBjCw~~_12.JPG)
Maybe this. Carbon but threaded... so doesn't really help.
-
• #47630
Odd choice of seatpost for a commuter/shopper/park bike.
It's a nice seatpost. Beaing a commuter/shopper etc doesn't exclude it from nice bits
-
• #47631
Got this on the bay a little while ago and slowly collecting parts, should have enough to ride in a week or so! I'm building it with an alfine 8.
It's rather huge for a ladies frame but with swept back bars I'm hoping it will fit my girl. Will probably visit Armourtex but I quite like that it says Londoner. It's Dawes and all 531, and looks like a rebadged Galaxy. Same lugs, long chainstays etc.
-
• #47632
So more problems fitting the Sugino 75's. I have a Centaur 111m bb but the axle on the drive side is too long, it fits on the non-drive side though. I'm coming back to London on Wednesday and if anyone could have a look, try their Sug 75's to see if there is a problem with mine, would really appreciate it!
till then ideas?
-
• #47633
till then ideas?
Sugino BB?
-
• #47634
Yeah, this is true. But I had read of so many people running centaur's with Sugino 75's that I though it would work. And don't want to spend on a Sug bb if theres an issue with the crank.
-
• #47635
This is odd.
Is the drive side fully tightened?*
*remember the non-drive side doesn't need to be fully in if things are getting too tight.
-
• #47636
Maybe this. Carbon but threaded... so doesn't really help.
Was looking at the I05TR and I806TR also, yeah shame it's threaded.
There's always the Storck Stiletto Carbon fork
http://www.poshbikes.com/images_new/products/storck1_l.jpg -
• #47637
isnt 111mm ISO axle **way **too log for njs crankset? thought they ran 107-109 stuff
-
• #47638
2mm longer than the prescribed Sugino one. But theres a whole host of people using it according to the transmissions thread. Is there variance in the Sugino 75's or Centaurs?
-
• #47639
Got this on the bay a little while ago and slowly collecting parts, should have enough to ride in a week or so! I'm building it with an alfine 8.
It's rather huge for a ladies frame but with swept back bars I'm hoping it will fit my girl. Will probably visit Armourtex but I quite like that it says Londoner. It's Dawes and all 531, and looks like a rebadged Galaxy. Same lugs, long chainstays etc.
My GF has a ladies Galaxy (we found it dumped by the side of the road in a sorry state) and it looks exactly the same (it works perfectly now). Great frames.
-
• #47640
isnt 111mm ISO axle **way **too log for njs crankset? thought they ran 107-109 stuff
Yes it's 1mm off.
-
• #47641
My two barn finds, neither of which have cost me anything so far.
The first is a BSA Courier 5 speed, rides great if not a bit relaxed
The second is a Raleigh Cascade for the other half
Thought these would be a good start into fg/ss (didn't want to spend too much on something i know relatively little about!)
-
• #47642
Yaaay, summer!
-
• #47643
isnt 111mm ISO axle **way **too log for njs crankset? thought they ran 107-109 stuff
Yes it's 1mm off.
No, because the Sugino 75 is an ISO crank. Most people are using Centaur or Veloce BBs with theirs because they are using Goldtecs or Phil hubs, which give a different chainline to the usual...
-
• #47644
Yaaay, summer!
this makes me feel physically sick with jealousy. but sort the stem.
-
• #47645
sort the stem.
^This
If that's where you need the bars, get a Newton Pista stem and lose 35mm of spacers. Also change the pedals if you're going to use it on the track.
-
• #47646
My audax bike is all finished, thanks mdcc tester for answering all my questions regarding gear compatibility.
I'm going to try and get up early in the morning to get some miles in, if not I've got a 100k route for the weekend.
Oh and I'll be riding this on the DD so if you see me come say hello!
-
• #47647
No, because the Sugino 75 is an ISO crank. Most people are using Centaur or Veloce BBs with theirs because they are using Goldtecs or Phil hubs, which give a different chainline to the usual...
Centaur/Veloce is an ISO taper axle.
If you use a 111mm ISO BB when a 109 ISO BB is recommended... your chainline will be about 1mm off.
-
• #47648
If you use a 111mm ISO BB when a 109 ISO BB is recommended... your chainline will be about 1mm off.
The point being that Phil/Goldtec hubs also put your chain line outboard of the NJS spec, so you actually need a longer BB to get things lined up.
-
• #47649
Why is this point being made? Did Tenderloin ask about getting a chainline for Goldtec/Phil hub?
He should be fine with a standard track hub and a chainline off by 1mm, no?
-
• #47650
^This
If that's where you need the bars, get a Newton Pista stem and lose 35mm of spacers. Also change the pedals if you're going to use it on the track.
I suppose that would work and loose a bit of weight, but I doubt it would look less silly.
I use it for the road too, so on longer jerneys I like the bars a bit higher. On the track I wouldn't mind going down 10-15mm.
Currently I'm training for a ride to Berlin with some mates, therefore the MTB pedals because walking in our riding shoes will be nessesary.
Since I'm also looking into Time trialing on it I'm really considering a Look Ergo stem for maximum fitting flexibility. Whats the generel thought on those?
Hey Joe, Yep, I still have the Nitto/X2/Easton setup....along with a Hed3 and the Eastons. I have a weird theory in the back of my mind that I'll find one of those old Condor Lavaro's in my size and will crabon it up......but in reality i should sell them all and stop thinking about more bikes.