Surly Steamroller owners...

Yes, something of a security fail

Mind you, how just how hard is it to remove track nuts?

Not very...

But you do need to carry a spanner - and (I get your point) anyone with a hand and a will to nick stuff can undo these

I carry a couple of spanners with me everywhere I go...not difficult. Obviously for a different reason mind. If yer wheels are locked up properly, shouldn't be an issue but I bet they'd steal the wingnut just for lolz.

That might be fun trying to ride home minus my nuts, so to speak

I carry a couple of spanners with me...

Enough about the company you keep (le sigh).

A spanner in your bag is essential if you want to change a flattie. So yeah, that's a good habit.

Those wingjobs are just the useless precursor of the Campag quick release. Best consigned to history, and historical bikes.

And this Mr (Graham?) Campagnolo is also not impressed.

Hello

Yes it's what I mean, and (important point) in the context of a urban situation where most of the effort is used to accelerate.

I'm no specialist in physics but I don't think the difference in rotating/non rotating part is huge when for example climbing a mountain. In this case, a gram is a gram, rotating or not (even if sometimes to regain some speed the climber has to accelerate).

In urban situation where the main point is to accelerate again and again and again, the moment of inertia becomes important.
And to be precise I suppose that the place of the weight is important. A rim, a tire or a tube can cause a big variation in this moment of inertia, I doubt a hub can.

This is easily verified in real life when using heavy tires (I remember using Schwalbe Marathon Plus on one of my hybrid bikes… the first day it was a huge surprise..)

To this we need likely to add friction , tires rolling resistance, global behavior of the wheel like (lack of) lateral stiffness that can translate part of the effort to a lateral movment instead of a forward movement, same consideration about stiffness applies to the frame itself (highend road race frames are.. stiff.. really stiff...)

The weight is not always the enemy. When riding on the flat out of this repeated acceleration context, it is of low importance, and when riding down hill, a heavier set will go faster.

But at the end, what I wanted to say was just that we can safely love Mr Steamroller even if it is slightly heavier than other frames.

Luc

Reference to kinetic energy of rotating mass: [ame]http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rotational_energy[/ame] - now you can calculate the energy you put into a set of wheels after shooting of from a stand. :-)

The speed of rotation is a factor with the power of two to the angular momentum. Hence, it is quite an important factor defining the characteristics of handling. This gets even more important at high speed and of course the characteristics of acceleration and deceleration.

I once had these Schwalbe Marathon Plus tyres too and switched to a road bike this spring. The difference was huge. I could accelerate like hell after being used to these nuke proof tyres.. But on the other hand, I noticed how much light weight wheels can take away your stability as the angular momentum is a great contributor to the stability of a bike.
Also, keep in mind that a rotating mass has kinetic energy stored. That means, lots of stored kinetic energy will help you move up a hill until the wheels stop (no kinetic energy left), i.e. like a fly wheel. I'm waiting until the day someone will come up with the actual idea to use a fly wheel to store braking energy for acceleration afterwards. ;)

That's my crappy knowledge of physics explained.

One thing for sure I've learned is, that heavier wheels are not a big problem on flat land. But if you're looking for speedy acceleration, aggressive handling and climbing: lighter wheels -> win

And apart from that, what I've read so far, the 'rollers are built for steady hard work in mind, which is why it isn't the lightest build on the market. So no serious pro wins on tracks. BTW, has someone got experience with them on a track?

haha great pic ^^

I'm waiting until the day someone will come up with the actual idea to use a fly wheel to store braking energy for acceleration afterwards. ;)

You might like KERS.

big lightweight tyre for the win.

You might like KERS.

A light light light weight version for bikes might be helpful to start from a red light. ;)

Ah, can't wait, getting excited now.

I've ordered the frame and parts. But have to wait until they'll be delivered.

I'm thinking about getting a Surly Steamroller frame - but was wondering about the importance of the long-reach calipers.

I've got a spare set of SRAM Force calipers in a cupboard somewhere.

Would they fit?

They will be fine. They are adjustable so the longest they should go is 57mm. Which is more than enough, my pads are not at the lowest point in the arm.

Anyone running 170mm cranks? Having a 34" in-seam I'm considering them over 165mm.
Any insight/issues or will they run fine ground clearance wise. Thanks.

Anyone running 170mm cranks? Having a 34" in-seam I'm considering them over 165mm.
Any insight/issues or will they run fine ground clearance wise. Thanks.

Yup, I am.

I'm using medium MKS clips and sometimes they scrape the ground when getting in/out of the straps (wouldn't be a problem clipless).

Other than that, no problems whatsoever!

me too, clipless now but had clips for a while, no probs at all

Awesome thanks. Guess i'll run 170s then, as should be better for my long legs. :)

170 is standard length no? can't see you having any issues at all with it

and a pedal scrape here or there doesn't matter, it's not really a bike to be too precious about (I think at least)

Only bought a frame, so wouldn't know.

It's not the damage to the bike, it's the damage to me from possibly coming off i'm worried about. So thought it was worth a check to see if people run 170s problem free.

aha, good point :)

After six months of sitting in my cupboard, I finally fitted the full-length mudguards I'd bough for my Steamroller. I used P-clips to attach to the front and back. Had to saw both struts of the stays at the front and one at the back. The rear was easier to fit because of this and had better clearance. The front bracket that attached to the brake could go higher, but only of I remove it and saw it in half. There is just enough clearance with my 25s and the narrowest SKS guards. Sorry for hazy pics, it is a grey day. Here are the results:

Looking good ShannonBall.

I'm about to get some of those P Clips from SJS Cycles but there is a size selection of 13mm 16mm 19mm and 22mm. Could you tell me what sizes you used ?

Thanks

Some answers from Surly
http://surlybikes.com/blog/2514/

^ Genius.