^^^^^ This is a mini bottle jack. It is becoming a preferred lock-breaking tool of the professional bike thief. This was what was discussed with me by the Snow Hill Safer City Wards Team the other day.
The reason I'm highligting this particular issue, is because this type of lock-breaking may then significantly narrow your choice of locks to use, and how to use them.
For example, today, with this in mind, I used the Edscoble-locking-method for the very first time. As I've said before, its genius. One aligns the crank in line with the downtube, and when locking the rear wheel and downtube to a secure object, if the lock is big enough, make sure the crank is locked within the locking space (gap inside of the lock shackle).
I still found that there is quite some room still in my GRPS lock, even though my rear wheel has a 43mm deep rim. But I felt much more secure about the way it was locked, than previously. Simply using one of the locks from the list, doesn't guarantee safety from theft, but it encourages the thief to move on to less well protected bikes. Even Edscoble, who is very security savvy, had his Abus Granit-X 54 broken the other day. This happened because the bike was locked outside, and the thief had a long time to try to break the lock. No lock is break-proof. But the better the lock, the longer it will take to be broken.
For this reason, the Kryptonite Fahg Mini IS one of the best tools to fight this technique, because the very small gap for locking is filled, and a bottle jack cannot be inserted. Another smaller lock (and at first I thought it too small) is the (Halfords) Magnum Plus Mini. Being even smaller than the Fahg Mini, a bottle jack cannot be inserted, but then again, I think there is only space for locking one wheel to the frame. And, no, not a very deep section wheel either.
So, make sure when you lock up, that the locking space (gap within the U-lock shackle) is as filled much as possible. The mini bottle jacks are as small as a fist, and some have 20-30 tonne ratings.
In a very high risk area, consider removing the front wheel, and locking it together with the rear wheel and the frame. Of course, if only using one lock, make sure if possible its 18mm in thickness, big enough for the job, and totalled filled when locked.
^^^^^ This is a mini bottle jack. It is becoming a preferred lock-breaking tool of the professional bike thief. This was what was discussed with me by the Snow Hill Safer City Wards Team the other day.
The reason I'm highligting this particular issue, is because this type of lock-breaking may then significantly narrow your choice of locks to use, and how to use them.
For example, today, with this in mind, I used the Edscoble-locking-method for the very first time. As I've said before, its genius. One aligns the crank in line with the downtube, and when locking the rear wheel and downtube to a secure object, if the lock is big enough, make sure the crank is locked within the locking space (gap inside of the lock shackle).
I still found that there is quite some room still in my GRPS lock, even though my rear wheel has a 43mm deep rim. But I felt much more secure about the way it was locked, than previously. Simply using one of the locks from the list, doesn't guarantee safety from theft, but it encourages the thief to move on to less well protected bikes. Even Edscoble, who is very security savvy, had his Abus Granit-X 54 broken the other day. This happened because the bike was locked outside, and the thief had a long time to try to break the lock. No lock is break-proof. But the better the lock, the longer it will take to be broken.
For this reason, the Kryptonite Fahg Mini IS one of the best tools to fight this technique, because the very small gap for locking is filled, and a bottle jack cannot be inserted. Another smaller lock (and at first I thought it too small) is the (Halfords) Magnum Plus Mini. Being even smaller than the Fahg Mini, a bottle jack cannot be inserted, but then again, I think there is only space for locking one wheel to the frame. And, no, not a very deep section wheel either.
So, make sure when you lock up, that the locking space (gap within the U-lock shackle) is as filled much as possible. The mini bottle jacks are as small as a fist, and some have 20-30 tonne ratings.
In a very high risk area, consider removing the front wheel, and locking it together with the rear wheel and the frame. Of course, if only using one lock, make sure if possible its 18mm in thickness, big enough for the job, and totalled filled when locked.
Didn't mean to ramble. Hope it might be helpful.