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• #5002
if you want a very noticeable upgrade for v-brakes, then definitely go for Avid Ultimates. I've not been on court with the Arch Rivals yet, but just on the commute home they are noticeably less stiff than than my ultimates. The Rivals do seem pretty good, better than standard Single Digit 7s but not a hair on the ultimates
@max - and I was wrong about the built in arch. after looking at it set up on the bike and doing a bit more research, it turns out it's not meant to be (nor does it works as) a booster, it helps the arms keep the pads parallel to the rim (like XTRs) and keeps the pads orientation centered on the rim.
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• #5003
I thought direct/liner (for long pull) means you get twice the power (mechanical advantage of mechanism being further away from pivot) with half the effort over twice the distance?
Actually, you get less less leverage but more pull distance with V-brake levers (assuming lever movement is identical), the leverage being compensated at the arms.
This gives you better feel.
Also V-brakes will follow the rim if it goes out of true without giving as much friction as callipers.
Put long pads on your callipers and you'll be fine! -
• #5004
2: I don't think I ever said it was the skid that puts the most pressure on the rear wheel. I did say locking up the rear wheel does. Maybe I should have said ''the point before you begin to skid'' Meh. In any case, the action of locking up your rear wheel is what I was describing. You're right that pressure is released when you start to skid. However, it doesn't change the fact that locking/unlocking again and again is a force which is put into the rear brake, but not really the front (unless you endo a lot. And you could say the rotation of the wheel in an endo relieves some pressure, just as a skid does
...but, I suspect you'll find that whilst a braking wheel is still rotating, it applies forces to the brake arms both in the plane of movement of the brake arms and in the plane of movement of the rotation of the rim.
In contrast, a locked-up wheel only applies forces to the brake arms in the plane of movement of the brake arms.#maybegabeswillclearthisup
#heseemstobequitegoodonsuchsubjects -
• #5005
Hmmm a brake surgery appears to have been created....
Those Paul double pull levers look awesome. I fudged two cables into a normal cross top. It sort of works but there is much less pull and the brakes need to be tuned well to get decent purchase.
I have UTFS but havent found any decent alternative double pull levers in the UK, I vaguely remember Rik making some but I cant find the thread. Any advice?
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• #5006
I ordered my paul direct, Brick Lane Bikes claim to have them in stock in the next couple of weeks.
They are awesome levers, took a little getting used to, longer blade etc, but yes, i highly recommend.
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• #5007
I vaguely remember Rik making some but I cant find the thread. Any advice?
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• #5008
I will be selling my Rik lever very soon + 1x Avid SD 7 v-brake + 1 x Deore v-brake + v-brake mounting plate and clamp for the rear.
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• #5009
todd you bastard you could have stopped to chat this morning
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• #5010
Today I made some new wheelcovers. High gloss though it doesn't show in the photos.
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• #5011
Put that shit in the spotted thread yorgo.
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• #5012
I've been using the same Avid Single Digit 7 since I got my green pompino, 18 months ago?
And used it on my rear facing mounts on the DAMP for over 10 months, don't think the rear facing mount is the problem.
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• #5013
Your bike is called a DAMP??
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• #5014
made by DAMP Cycles.
But I call her Geneveive.
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• #5015
todd you bastard you could have stopped to chat this morning
Wanted to mate but I was already late unfortunately.
Inside my head there was such a battle...
"fuck work there's the inventor V's dammit I'm late for my meeting Yorgo will have to wait" -
• #5016
Any opinions on this?
http://www.bonthronebikes.co.uk/brake-lever-dbl-cabl -
• #5017
I believe that's the one Ryan is using. Feels pretty solid. More solid than most of the off-the-shelf double levers. It's short pull though (may or may not be a problem for you).
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• #5018
I believe that's the one Ryan is using. Feels pretty solid. More solid than most of the off-the-shelf double levers. It's short pull though (may or may not be a problem for you).
Yes it's a problem, I running v-brakes. Anyway I'm doing a homemade Primo Pervert, to have it in long pull system.
Thanks. -
• #5019
I will be selling my Rik lever very soon + 1x Avid SD 7 v-brake + 1 x Deore v-brake + v-brake mounting plate and clamp for the rear.
I might be interested in your rear brake setup Todd, assuming no one else has got in there first.
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• #5020
It's a shame, because I reckon polo could do with some decent, cheapish off-the-peg bikes. The biggest problem with this one is the toe-overlap, because it can't really be corrected by changing components. Even with a freewheel and brakes, it would cause problems!
Something like this, with a longer front-centre, double v-brakes and freewheel option for £300-400 would help people without bike knowledge get into the sport.
wouldn't the archie wilkinson cycle speedway bicycle make a great polo bike once you wack a back brake on?
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• #5021
can anyone explain the main benefits to v brakes?? my regular brakes seem to work great for me, and i just dont see how v brakes would work any better....
V-Brakes are significantly more powerful than caliper brakes, so you could probably use just one finger with that set-up.
However, in my experience, pads and brake quality blur the margins between brake designs. For example: good dual-pivot calipers with decent pads are close to a cheap V-brake with stock pads.
I use these http://www.wiggle.co.uk/ashima-v-brake-4-function-pad-inserts/ on my and they massively improved the power. Kool-stop are supposed to be the shit, but are sooo expensive.
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• #5022
why? whats wrong with disc brakes? are you scared you're going to get your fingers caught in them? How? if the bike is moving, how are you going to have your hand in the middle of their wheel?
People keep saying they are dangerous, but we've not yet seen one accident that was caused by a disc brake. Mostly, the only thing that happens is that the disc rotor gets bent. What about where the chain feeds onto the chainring, surely that's dangerous too, to get your fingers stuck in there, oh, but you'd have to get your hand in there, while the rider is still pedalling, so we'll let it go.
I did once get someone's foot stuck in my chain. I didn't realise straight away, I was trying to get back on my bike, and couldn't work out why the guy was standing so close to me & whimpering...
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• #5024
Rik, do you get an email anytime something new is posted on the internet?
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• #5025
Rik knows everything
Oi there smarty pants. Neither of your points counters what I said. As Popper would say, you have failed to falsify my hypothesis. They are, therefore, not "problems." (As far as I can work out from what you've said).
1: you may lesson the weight on the rear-end, but you do not totally unweight it. If you did you would be endoing (if you were engaging the front brake as well) or floating (if you were only using a rear brake). Does the front brake take more forces because of momentum when using two brakes? I guess the answer is it depends on your brake setup.
2: I don't think I ever said it was the skid that puts the most pressure on the rear wheel. I did say locking up the rear wheel does. Maybe I should have said "the point before you begin to skid." Meh. In any case, the action of locking up your rear wheel is what I was describing. You're right that pressure is released when you start to skid. However, it doesn't change the fact that locking/unlocking again and again is a force which is put into the rear brake, but not really the front (unless you endo a lot. And you could say the rotation of the wheel in an endo relieves some pressure, just as a skid does).
Anyway, I also don't know what's causing Jono's brake fails. But there's no harm in imagining possibilities.
#notaphysicist,talkingoutofmyassprobably