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• #2
Change your rear sprocket - cheaper and easier. If your rear hub is a flip flop you could put something else on the other side and still have your old gear available.
Don't hurry to change up though - spin FTW!
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• #3
I've got the bog-standar flip flop hub it comes with, so do i change the sproket on this hub?
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• #4
yeah get spinning, i'm on silly low gearing now compared to when i started riding, still as fast though*
*no really
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• #5
Don't change both the chainring and freewheel at the same time, try a different chainring with your current freewheel. Then if you need to change your freewheel.
1.) Yes just buy a chainring with the right BCD and a chainring tool, and you should be able to do it yourself. (Assuming you have a crank puller to get the cranks off the bottom bracket in the first place.)
2.) Yes most probably you will have to lengthen your chain.
3.) I would say it will feel a little tougher at first, but you will get used to it.
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• #6
1.) Yes just buy a chainring with the right BCD and a chainring tool, and you should be able to do it yourself. (Assuming you have a **crank puller to get the cranks off **the bottom bracket in the first place.)
no understandee
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• #7
Get a new chain whatever you do. Since you have a flip flop you could run 2 free wheels on it while you decide which your prefer (although this is quite noisy)
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• #8
Don't change both the chainring and freewheel at the same time, try a different chainring with your current freewheel. Then if you need to change your freewheel.
1.) Yes just buy a chainring with the right BCD and a chainring tool, and you should be able to do it yourself. (Assuming you have a crank puller to get the cranks off the bottom bracket in the first place.)
2.) Yes most probably you will have to lengthen your chain.
3.) I would say it will feel a little tougher at first, but you will get used to it.
don't listen, change sprocket first, then chainring if needed
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• #9
Small changes in the amount of teeth too. You may be surprised by the difference a single extra tooth can do.
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• #10
Change your rear sprocket - cheaper and easier. If your rear hub is a flip flop you could put something else on the other side and still have your old gear available.
Don't hurry to change up though - spin FTW!
I agree with this guy
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• #11
42x16 to 48x16 will fuck you up.
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• #12
42x16 to 48x16 will fuck you up.
This is what I'm afraid of, I was hoping for a bit of guidance on what a decent "next step" gearing would be.
Is there forum consensus on what the best sprocket upgrade would be from a 42:16 to is?
Get a new chain whatever you do.
its a bitch if i have to spend another £30 on a chain, but its probably for the best since the added links wont be worn to the same degree as the rest of the chain (which is less than a year old) so it will cause uneven-ness and probably more wear.
But if i go for a smaller sproket does this mean i can keep my chain, or should i jsut give up on keeping the chain?
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• #13
42:15 is a good start
a new chain doesn't need to cost more than a tenner
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• #14
its a bitch if i have to spend another £30 on a chain
Whoa, what kind of baller chains are you rocking? Some Mr T shit? Chain should cost you about a tenner. You will be doing your new sprocket/chain ring a diservice by using a chain which by the sounds of it is more than a year old. Change the chain whether you have resultant slack or not.
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• #15
Whoa, what kind of baller chains are you rocking?
Ok I'm vain, i like my chains like i like my women, tight. and blue.
I run shadow conspiracy interlock V2 in blue, if there is a decent blue chain out there for a tenner I'm all ears!
Here's a pic of it:
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• #16
thread ends
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• #17
dies
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• #18
If Automan had a bike, this is what it would look like!
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• #19
I like to think of it as my super low budget lightcycle.
Its mainly for the side on visibility at night
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• #20
Is this your outfit for riding too?
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• #21
weather dependent
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• #22
red chains are faster
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• #23
only when matched with red pedals. its a science thing
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• #24
White chains are faster. Especially when covered in grime to hide the white. While lightning innit
Coloured chains are just wrong. I only have a coloured chain because that's all the shop had. Sram make a perfectly good 1,1/8th chain for £9 (PC-1)
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• #25
Coming up to my one year anniversary of switching to single speed.
I've got a 2010 langster with the OTP chainring which is 42T chainring with a 16T rear hub.
I've gotten used to this gear ratio, but i think im ready to go up a step since I'm having no trouble tackling the hills on my commute, but could definitely use a higher speed on flat/downhill.
Since i am pretty oblivous to this sort of thing I have a few questions:
1)is it as simple as buying and fitting a new chainring? is this a DIY job or bike shop only
2)will I have to lenghen my chain? I have a few spare links that were taken out when i had my chain fitted, will these have be put back on
3)how much of a difference will going up to 46T or 48T make in pulling away from the line?
Any general help or advice greatly appreciated