Chain tension and tensioning a chain

My chain makes a sort of clicking sound as it makes contact with the rear cog and it gets kind of annoying when im riding, is this normal? Im asking here because my chain quite tight but i cant take out a link because the drop outs are too short/chainstays are too long.

drop down a tooth on the chainring or the cog. you won't notice much difference, and it'll buy you some slack.

have you checked for good chainline.

My chain makes a sort of clicking sound as it makes contact with the rear cog and it gets kind of annoying when im riding, is this normal? Im asking here because my chain quite tight but i cant take out a link because the drop outs are too short/chainstays are too long.

What Nimbus said, get a smaller rear sprocket to increase you chain length.
This should reduce the noise you are getting from the apparent overly tight chain.

have you checked for good chainline.

In my humble opinion, your chainline would have to be quite 'off-centre' to make any noticeable difference ie noise etc as described. most likely over tight chain.

Great seeing this thread, as I am getting a lot of noise from my new chain, and after reading this it could be that the chain is too tight, will try to slacken a bit and see how it goes tomorrow!

Hello. I am going forward with the bike project. Today I mounted the BB, chainring and everything, and then the chain. I had a long chain, with the 'quick release' thing. Which didn't work. That means, once I had the correct length, taking the quick release thing made the chain a bit too short. Ok I could have added the piece of chain that I had left before....but the garage was closing so I had to hurry.

The result is this: the chain is very very tense (which I think is good), cannot even reach the rear triangle pipe, and its length doesn't allow the hub to reach the end of the dropouts (which I think is good because keeps the chain in costant tension). I know that normally you can have screws on the dropout to 'choose' the distance of the hub axle. But I don't have them on this frame, so the 5 seconds solution I have thought of, has been to put a piece of metal between the axle and the dropout. The piece of metal has a shape that doesn't allow it to snap out of the dropout (it just doesn't come off because of the shape), and is solid enough to prevent the axle to come further upwards.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-OHNQJ_vyN38/Tcgt--yUjEI/AAAAAAAAAG4/NhLAI2JG9xY/s1152/P1010573.JPG

Now....what is the correct solution? Should I make the chain longer so that the axle touch the dropouts at the same point ? Should I just add two rings ?

Just make sure the wheel nuts are tight enough and you won't have any problems. You don't need tensioners unless you're a massive sprinter going for it all the time.

Also your QR is on the wrong side. And having a QR is going also to make it more likely for the wheel to slip as you won't know how tight it's holding.

First of all, you don't want your chain too tight, it's noisy and less efficient, have about a cm of give when you poke it with a finger or thereabouts (unless you're chainline isn't great in which case you run the risk of the chain coming off while riding if it's too loose).

The wheel does not need to be at the end of the dropouts, as long as both nuts have good contact with the dropout and the QR is done up tight then it's fine. Basically, you don't need those metal things in the dropout.

You usually only lose chain tension as the chain stretches, so you shouldn't have to re-tension it that often (though you'll probably have to take your wheel off to change punctures etc. long before you notice this). If you do suddenly lose chain tension, it means the QR isn't done up enough.

Also, the chain quick release links are IMHO bullshit, i can never get them off without fucking up my nails, chain tools are so much easier.

http://www.sheldonbrown.com/fixed.html
About halfway down, he talks about 'walking' the rear wheel to get the tension, though you can only do this with a solid axle + track nuts.

yes the QR is the wrong side....noticed that just now that you say it. i'll make sure that the QR is well closed. I'll ride like this for a bit and see that everything goes all right. In case not, maybe i'll add 2 rings so that the axle touches the end of the dropout (avoiding the risk that the QR implies by leaving the axle half way...like the wheel slipping backwards...and slipping ONLY on the left side) ?

I see what you mean... dunno if there's an official remedy, either bodge it or get a solid axle i guess.

It's doubtful that the wheel will slip backwards. If anything it will slip forwards.

I agree with cowhen about chain tension, lose better.However, if you think it is too lose spin the crank with foot and lift bike up on it's side in air. The chain will stay in place if tension is ok. There is always tight spots so you might find it tight and lose as you turn crank. I think it is best to find tight spot and set chain tension in that position.

First of all, you don't want your chain too tight, it's noisy and less efficient

Not true, according to Johns Hopkins University: http://www.jhu.edu/news_info/news/home99/aug99/bike.html

Interesting read, cheers for the link.

I will have to change my preach, the noise still pisses me off though, and surely that factors for some energy loss? Doesn't say in the article whether that was assessed or not.

It may not be less efficient but running your chain tight all the time will probably stretch it quicker than if it was ever so slightly slack. Also, as many parts aren't perfectly true you get tight spots. So checking the tension for the chain's full revolution is a must. It will probably wear out your BB bearings out quicker too.

also, if the chain is tight, when you spin the wheel, it spins for a lesser time than when slightly looser, and grinds

I will have to change my preach, the noise still pisses me off though, and surely that factors for some energy loss? .

Maybe the noise indicates worn items elswhere in the system? Seems to me that a loose chain is doing extra work as the links are moving against each other when they do not need to.

Nah, tight chain is noisier. Stuff ain't worn, but the chainline isn't great so that's where the noise comes from. Tight chain emphasises the off chainline.

http://www.wiggle.co.uk/miche-primato-track-bottom-bracket/

Perfect chainline for £12.59.

Thing is, i'm cool with it. Fuck buying shit.

most of my chainrings are alu.
It's heat-treated and hardened but it stills wears quicker than steel rings.
It's not like you swap them every ride.

Whilst no physics expert, a tight as possible chain means extra friction. Extra friction means wasted energy.

Perfecto..

this.

So, I've adjusted my chain so that it's as tight as possible without binding. There is no slack at all when the cranks are in a particular stage of rotation, but the chain does have some give and slack at other points of rotation.

If I increase tension so that there is no slack at all at any stage of the crank's rotation, weird noises come from the drive train and I notice that more effort is required to turn the cranks.

From reading Sheldon Brown - http://www.sheldonbrown.com/fixed.html#tension - it seems as if, by adjusting the chainwheel bolts, you can achieve a minimal loss of tension throughout the crank's revolution.

My questions are:

Has anyone done this?
Is it difficult?
Is it actually even worth doing? Am I leaving myself open to making a mountain out of a mole hill?

NB: I don't have a workstand or an abundance of tools, so I'm thinking it might not be worth biting off more than I can chew, but, if it's worth doing then I'll give it a go...

definately worth doing. few people have done this on here before. sounds pretty straight forward. although you might want to check to see if there is a particular order to undo the bolts in otherwise you might find the chainring just moving on the cranks and never centering.

Sheldon explains it pretty clearly. I had the same problem, used his method a couple of times to no avail though.