Hub thread problem

I've got Novatec track hub with On-One track cog that seems to be right thread for hub,but whenever I skid, cog keeps unskrewing and it just simply pushes off the lockring by destroying threads. I almost got killed myself twice and fucked up thread on one side.
Looking for any help,solutions and ideas.

how have you been tightening the lockring, how much force/torque do you use?

add stacks of torque on the lockring, or lockring might just be a cheap thing with weird pan-dimensional threads*

*they do exist. come across all sorts of bike parts with weird threads in the past.

are you using proper tools?

I am tightening lockring that came with Novatec hub with all my force using proper tool.

But what about putting the cog on? No point doing a lockring very tightly if the cog isn't fully ridden-on tight.

Goes like this:
Grease all (clean) threads.
Chainwhip on cog, tight.
Put on lockring, tight.
Ride forwards hard, no skidding or back pressure, then retighten lockring.
Ride again, no back pressure, & retighten.

Are the threads on the lockring or the hub damaged? Replace whichever is. Hopefully it's the lockring

skully has a good point actually, riding it a bit helps a lot. Its like cottered cranks, you have to ride a few seconds, tighten, ride a few tens of seconds, tighten, wiggle, tighten, and build it up like that. otherwise within 10mins you'll have the cranks and/or bb axle fooped.

If you have any big trouble you could try using locktight. works like supper glue on threads, makes it tough to get off but still doable with enough leverage. But it also depends on how attached you are to your hubs.

skully is right. You have to tighten the cog fully before tightening the lockring fully. Your lockring can be on as much as possible but if the cog can still move then it will unscrew.

Thank you, I'll try that. Would it make any huge difference tightening the cog only with cranks help? Don't have a chain whip for 1/8 now.

Bounce your weight on the pedal to make sure it's locked. That was enough to get me going again on track and should be enough for everything to lock together.

By bounce I mean by ankle movement to drop weight on the pedal, not full body heave.

If you have any big trouble you could try using locktight. works like supper glue on threads, makes it tough to get off but still doable with enough leverage. But it also depends on how attached you are to your hubs.

What glue brand are you exactly talking about? Would consider glueing cog with lockring.

Are you sure that the threads on the lockring are ok (all the way round the hub?). If they're gone the cog would just uncrew the lockring, and I wouldn't ride that hub anymore.

(Oz is talking about locktite, I wouldn't consider it sufficient to use on a hub with an undoing lockring that you need to use as a brake)

Thread is not 100% ok, but lockring screws on.

Are you sure that the threads on the lockring are ok (all the way round the hub?). If they're gone the cog would just uncrew the lockring, and I wouldn't ride that hub anymore.

(Oz is talking about locktite, I wouldn't consider it sufficient to use on a hub with an undoing lockring that you need to use as a brake)

I was describing how much to tighten the sprocket if you don't have a chainwhip.

loctite 243, its a small red tube, the liquid is blue. turns a crusty white when hard.

I've just destroyed my 3rd on-one flip flop hub in 7 months
threads stripped yet again, so thats 6 sets of track hub threading ruined.
Also, another chunk to add to the bill, the 3 sprockets that have had their threads filled with the threads from the hub are now unusable. Blurgh

The 4 times i installed the sprocket, 2 we're done by rotafixing and the other 2 were done by cycling up Highgate west hill, so i thought the chances of over tightening we're minimal. I was obviously wrong.
The other two we're done by a mate who works as a bike mechanic, with a chainwhip. Those set of threads went quicker than the ones i did.

So is it shit hubs? or must i be doing something horribly wrong.

do you check the threads first to make sure theres no dirt there? Im using a rear on-one hub 6months maybe with no trouble and Ive changed the cog at least 4-5times.
those hubs are good quality, made by Novatec in Taiwan. same as the Token hubs.

I usually stand over the wheel(removed from frame) and put my weight down over the chainwhip till it wont go no further, I give it a few little heaves when it feels very tight just to get it all way. I also put some grease on the threads.

I've heard that there are hard thread glues, that would make cog almost unremovable. Could anyone recommend that kind of glue?

Bad luck rosmal! Sounds expensive.

Maybe time to invest in a bolt-on?

the glues can help you,but you need as well a good lockring,try with one ticker(with more 'line' of thread than the original one)

@Colm, yeah, i've covered all those bases. Always been the same routine, clean hub, grease hub, tighten, then lockring. I use candle wax as a crappy way of securing parts on my bike*, as well as dirt proofing the exposed threads on my hubs.

Chainwhips are a waste of money IMO

@Skulls I think you may be right,
a bolt on hub/cog thing may be my solution, but i cant justify spending the necessary ~£95 on a hub that will go onto a mavic open sport, a slightly bent one at that.

Beginning to look like no fixeh fun till i get a job. =/

• so far its prevented the loss of my stem n bars, seat n seatpost and the other pedal (the bastard stole a single pedal)
  

I was describing how much to tighten the sprocket if you don't have a chainwhip.

Oh yeah - sorry, got posts mixed up :)

I think you can use a front mtb hub for a bolt on cog - velosolo had some cheapish ones.

Damn, who says that fixed gear practical and cheap?