Belt drive fixed

Does anyone offer services for modification of carbon frames to fit a belt drive? I quite like the picture of the rear dropout which was split in half, which might work for a carbon bike since the dropouts are still metal. Or even better, the one which sliced the dropout to half it's thickness for each of the arms of the triangle.

That was mine.

I dont think the drop-outs are availible to buy separately. Although you could contact spotbrand and ask. There are a couple places that repair carbon products. I would imagine the removal and replacement of a existing drop-out, would be doable. But all this does sound a bit expensive.

Is there somewhere that sell the kits for belt drive systems?

Try here:
http://www.g-boxx.com/e-carbondrive.html

Has anybody run a belt drive fixed themselves?

Discussions of motorbikes is forbidden. Just want to hear from real people who have, or if you personally know someone who does.

Has anybody run a belt drive fixed themselves?

Discussions of motorbikes is forbidden. Just want to hear from real people who have, or if you personally know someone who does.

Mines on a single speed. But I would'nt expect you'd notice much fixed, when compared to a well oiled and tensioned chain.

Apart from the weight saving. The only real benefit is the lack of maintinance needed, and if you cant keep something as basic as a fixed gear bike maintained. well...

By far the best thing about mine is the noise. A gentle hum, interspersed with mad angry clicking from my HopeProII freewheel. Love it.

Has anybody run a belt drive fixed themselves?

Discussions of motorbikes is forbidden. Just want to hear from real people who have, or if you personally know someone who does.

not meself....BUT.....sold a Trek District to a guy last august, he's been using it all winter and hasnt cleaned it once!...bought it in for a service last week and it was seriously filthy, yet the belt didnt even need tensioning and was damage free, so i would say the maintenance free concept is well and truly proven

(still waiting on an alfine 11 to slap in the back of my (as yet unridden) District...)

A Sturmey Archer S2C with belt drive might be my ideal drive combo.

The phil wood is very nice

A Sturmey Archer S2C with belt drive might be my ideal drive combo.

mmm?

Has anybody run a belt drive fixed themselves?

Discussions of motorbikes is forbidden. Just want to hear from real people who have, or if you personally know someone who does.

Oh, yes! I run a one myself, have had it fixed for 6 months or so. Haven't had any problems so far.

mmm?

love love love the TSR's, with each passing day my damaged spine (fractured vertebrae falling from a tree whilst a tree surgeon....ouch ) begs me to buy one....

seriously low GI on those mind....

It's not low actually, the 1st gear is perfect for uphill and starting off, while the 2nd is a perfect ratio for general riding in town.

I loved the TSR2, but to be honest, I'd like to have one without the coaster (with additional rear brake) as when you slow down with the coaster, you change gear again, so it can take quite a while to get used to.

I wonder if you lovely chaps might be able to give me a hand with some calcs ...

With my current set up, according to Sheldon Brown, I am running with 68.3 Gear Inches.
Tech details: 700x25; 165 cranks; 44 tooth chainring; 17 tooth sprocket.

My new set up will have the following: 650x23 or 650x25; 165 cranks; Gates belt drive TBA. Note the smaller wheels.

I have been given some belt drive options, but can't quite make sense of the Gates Calculator at the moment. It looks like I need to keep to a chainstay of around 390/395 (according to bike builder).

What configuration of sprockets can I use to try and keep as close to 68 GI?

Basically you want a 56 tooth chainring, and a 20 tooth sprocket to get that high. I think 20 is the smallest sprocket as the belt dosent bend as well as a chain. Also, I think they only do a 55. So thats more like 67GI. This gives you a long CS length of 410.7 though.

To get a 390.3mm CS length 60:22 works, and gives 63.4 GI, with the option of getting a 20t sprocket to run 73.4GI (CS of 395.3mm). This is using a 113t belt.

So it depends on how flexible you want to be with your chain stays. Long ones are nice if you are looking to run a rear rack. But if not, I'd be tempted to keep the stays short, and run option 2.

Awesome, thanks!

I've managed to reach a similar conclusion: 60T/22T; 66.65 GI; 390.32 CS. Slightly higher GI though. I hadn't thought of the option to change rear sprocket if I wanted to.

Took me a while last night to replicate what the bike builder had suggested, I wanted to be sure it was calculated with the right wheel size (which I figured was 650c = 26 x 1.25 = 1950).

I shall go with that thanks!

I think I might have used 26 x 1.00. So your numbers are probably better.

You can also get 24T sprockets (I've got one, on my 46:24 off-road set-up), so if you get the chainstays made to 390mm to the centre of the trackend, with 6mm either side. You can run 60:22 for everyday cycling, 60:20 for fast flat efforts, and 60:24 for hilly stuff. The sprockets are expensive, and swapping them out and retensioning is a bit of a PITA. But its nice to have possibilitys when your spending so much money.

All the best, keep us posted.

nerd

Can't see how it might work as bikes have different length chainstays. Would you have to measure your chainstay and load that in?

the calc is based on number of belt "teeth"

belt lumps

In the app it lists a distance from front to rear sprocket, if you know the maximum and minimum values for your dropouts it works nicely

^^ So you put in the length of your belt then work out what gear ratio's you can use? Sounds mildly pointless to me. I can see it being useful as an online calculator like all the other gear calcs around but as an app that might be used a few times in a year it's just another little thing to clutter the inside of the pristine iPhoney you have.

^ Starting to see more how it works.

Not sure its something you need to carry on your phone. But then most Iphone owners dribble when they demonstrate their spirit level app. Yes, great, very handy.

My belt is running totally smoothly now. Its silient.

It does also contain a sonic tension tester, which could be useful if you were out and about and had to change a tube and needed to get the tension right again

If you use the 'wheel walk' method of tensioning, much like you might on a fixed chain. But give it muchos beanos. You're probably pretty spot on. The system works better under higher tensions than a chain. If you use your EBB, chain tensioners etc. I suppose you could over do it. I never tried TBH. The manual method, with added grunt, works well.