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• #2
Wheel size and cassette are not really related closely. Pour a beer and go to Sheldon Brown (Google) and have a read around for a bit.
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• #3
A few things to consider:
If it's the original wheel on an older bike, then it may well be a freewheel system as opposed to freehub.
The rear spacing between the stays may be 120mm (up to 5 speed or Ultra-6), 126mm(up to 7-speed) or 130mm (see freehub options). Steel frames can be re-set wider or narrower, though up to a 6mm squeeze isn't much and you can often get away without re-setting on a flexy frame.
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• #4
And you probably want some 27" wheels if you're after the period look, I have a spare pair that came off a Raleigh Europa plus cassette..
Holler if that tickles your pickle.
D
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• #5
I'm looking to buy new(newer) wheels than the ones that where on the bike but we did fit the original wheel with a 7 speed and it fitted with a bit of persuasion (not enough to make any difference to the stays) but never the less it fitted...
I just briefly read up on sheldon browns website regarding freewheel and freehub and technically speaking could I disregard the cassette I have now find a decent set of wheels and then just buy a new freewheel/cassette depending on what that wheel takes?
also any advice on wheel brands to steer clear of and ones to bare in mind? I'm looking to spend less than £100 for a pair as I want to make this re-build as cheap as possible to get me back out riding sooner (I know its not much to spend on wheels and yes I know it's worth the wait for better quality but still...)
thanks for your replies guys much appreciated
Ben -
• #6
BUMP
still could do with some info on above message anyone?
cheers, Ben
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• #7
Firstly, re-read the Sheldon article(s) just so you are totally clear.
There are wheels which have a threaded hub which accept a freewheel (ratcheting set of chainrings), or alternatively the later freehub system which has a cassette of separate chainrings fitted to a ratcheting mechanism which is already embedded in the hub.
The latter has the advantage of causing less stress on the axle and is probably preferable.
If I were you, I'd stick with 7-speed if it was a slight squeeze (sounds like you may have 120mm spacing). Freehub/cassette preferable, though not essential.
I'd look on eBay or post a WTB here for what you are looking for. Mavic make good rims in general, and I've had no trouble with Shimano, Ritchey, Mavic, and Campagnolo hubs.
If it's a sub 531 Raleigh frame, then I'd maybe be aiming to spend less than £30 on each wheel unless you want to use them for a later build.
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• #8
Plus any 700c wheel that takes a shimano cassette, the cassette should come with a spacer that will make it wide enough.
if not get one here
A wheel that takes a cassette will likely be 126mm spacing and if you have an old steel frame that will likely be 120mm spacing between the dropouts. Do not worry about this as you can spread the dropouts the extra 6mm and it will be fine.
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• #9
thanks guys all that information has helped a lot!!!
will get all the progress fliks and final shots up when iv completed the build...Ben
I ride fixed but I'm currently working on re-building an old raleigh road racer it is going to be geared (yes i know fixed and single speed forum stupid place to ask)
I'm looking into buying some 700c wheels i lined up my fixies wheels with the raleigh frame I have and they fitted perfect
the question is will a 7 speed cassette fit on a 700c wheel? I have a cassette but don't want to buy a set of wheels and find out they are no good for gears... (I'm a bit of a novice but trying... so don't rip into me too hard with the sarcasm :D hahaha a useful reply would be hugely appreciated)
Thanks, Ben