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• #602
You'd do well to get some verniers, or get the bits to some. The link says the bike came with a Stronglight A9 headset, which is most likely to be British, but I don't know if they made French jobs.
Is there any sign of what is fitted headset-wise in terms of make? Can you get the stem to someone who could measure it accurately? There's potential for a load of grief, but it could be standard sizes and easy. But a British standard headset doesn't necessarily mean a British bb thread...
Good luck with the seat post.
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• #603
^^ numpty
Stronglight are French. I'll leave it for comedy value.
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• #604
I just stripped the headset down, there are no markings. (edit: what looks like the remains of an "s" on the locknut, matches the stronglight)
"Flat" type roller bearings, black plastic body. The contact surface rings are quite pitted, owing to the grobag of dirt i cleaned out of the casings/cages.I can make do with keeping this if it turns out to be hard to replace, although the adjustable race and locknut are scratched to shit through someone using grips or something to remove it.
Its a weird one since it has no seals. I might make a small lip for the crown race if i keep it.
cheers!
(edit: measured the width of the hole through the top race, 25.5mm or so consistent with english. phew)
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• #605
....
http://www.decathlon.co.uk/EN/l330-basic-diam-23-4-25-27-2-35412401/
So not all is lost in finding suitable seatpost.
I just noticed this isn't the expanding type. Which mine is. Gutted.
Anyone have one from a scrapped pug build they could sell me? -
• #606
You don't need the expanding type, both work fine, just a different method of tightening stem/seatpost onto the frame.
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• #607
I don't see room for a clamp. Google says this is a very difficult problem to fix.
I imagine i will have to get someone to cut a slot, and braze on two threaded eyes.
hmm -
• #608
misunderstood you, did not see the lack of clamp.
Did you measure the seatpost? your frame sound like a rarity (i.e. better than a typical carbonite 103 pug).
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• #609
why aren't we asleep?
The frame is this one..
Found this seatpost in the states, suspect it's an expensive solution though.
I'm beginning to doubt there's even room for a slot and eyes now..
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• #610
what you're looking for is a quill seatpost.
find out what size they are, and contact Hilary if he had any for sales (hilary stone from the classified section who made his business selling bicycles frame and part).
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• #611
anywhere other than h llyods do peugeot transfers?
after these?
http://img199.imageshack.us/img199/3365/peugeot1981uscataloguo1.jpg
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• #612
So, I am finally going to get my peugeot stripped, hopefully tonight, and off to get powdercoated. It's a shame as it is a shiny almost turqoise. Anyway I quite like it, but it has too many rust spots and I've got a good deal on the powdercoat from somewhere local (Glasgow). Not sure what I'm going to go for, either an off white, or most probably, stealth black. Got all my parts ready to go as soon as it's back in about a week or so.
Then the nightmare may or may not begin. :)
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• #613
Got it stripped last night; everything off it bar the cranks which were not for moving, despite the best efforts of my mate who brought his tools round. Bit of a nightmare, so it's off to the LBS to resolve that.
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• #614
I assume you used a crank extractor tool?
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• #615
I assume you used a crank extractor tool?
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• #616
There was a plastic cover over the slot in the cranks and it has disintegrated with age, with the plastic in the thread, like say, a crushed boiled sweet would go. It wasn't for coming out. Tried melting it etc. We were chipping it out with a screwdriver but the only problem then was ruining the thread, and then the only way to get em out would have been a hacksaw to the axle of the cranks. Wasn't really worth it as I've got loads on and no time to muck about with all of that, so i'm going to go into the LBS on monday and get it sorted. Less hassle.
Everything else came off with a bit of elbow grease though.
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• #617
I've got the exact frame to Robadob on page 7 peugeot Esprit.
I've been removing rusty parts (and when i say rusty I mean rusty) with electrolysis
which has been working a treat.........until i set to remove my cranks with a crank extractor. The main bolt doesn't screw all the way in to
the crank's thread and when i apply enough force, Only the thread fooks up!!!!
Now my crank arms' threads are torn and I still can't remove my crankset for BB maintenance
HELP!!!!!!!!! -
• #618
removed the crank bolt?
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• #619
http://i53.tinypic.com/25eznf4.jpg
just finished my first build
bought the frame for £33
all i need to complete it is a dia compe bmx brake lever, don't like only one drop lever
and some bartape
might get a bigger chainring too. -
• #620
sorry about the massive green door and massive photo
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• #621
^ paint is cracking and peeling on them doors, and the leaves could do with sweeping up too.
If riding it, even whilst waiting to find the right bar tape, suggest you plug the bar ends as they can cause a right mischief to you otherwise.
Does look quite spinny but you'll soon get a feel for the gear you'd like.
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• #622
....until i set to remove my cranks with a crank extractor. The main bolt doesn't screw all the way in to
the crank's thread and when i apply enough force, Only the thread fooks up!!!!
Now my crank arms' threads are torn and I still can't remove my crankset for BB maintenanceI'd either try to clean the mashed-up threads with soap and a toothbrush and then re-insert (trying to get it to thread further.
Or, I'd just look at the picture a few posts above and consider bashing shit out of the crank arm with a hammer. Could also heat the crank arm near the axle in preparation if it's seized. There's also sometimes an option of sticking a large blade screwdriver between the back of the crank arm (near the axle) and the face of the bottom bracket and lockring. If you hold the screwdriver vertically, you can hammer it into this gap, prising the crank arm off. Good luck!
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• #623
^ paint is cracking and peeling on them doors, and the leaves could do with sweeping up too.
If riding it, even whilst waiting to find the right bar tape, suggest you plug the bar ends as they can cause a right mischief to you otherwise.
Does look quite spinny but you'll soon get a feel for the gear you'd like.
i'm considering getting 48T but i live round lots of hills, i'll try it out.
thanks, i did get a bit of a whack from the bar end which hurt my knee -
• #624
Any thoughts on this blue peugeot (sorry shit pics) priced at £245
531 tubing
maillard hubs
mavic wheels
suntour superbe derailleurs/crank
atac stem
something like Richard? barslooks hardly used
thats all i remember
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• #625
Is the brake Mafac or Weinnman?
otherwise look very good as they're pretty good spec.
money a bit high, but then it's to be expected from a shop (and in remarkably good nick with new tyres too).
Ok, i'm in the process now of fizzing out the stem, which i have cut off short and removed with the forks.
I am trying to ascertain whether this is a french standard frame/headset/stem, so i can get the right replacement parts.
This is probably my bike in catalog but most of the parts appear to have been changed.
This link reckons that if my stem measures 22 mm or less, its French, since british ones should be 22.2.
My (much less than precise, no calipers) measurements put my stem at 22mm, but i hope not. I don't want to have to replace the forks/bars. /:
Is there any other telltale sign to let me know if the frame is french standard? I haven't removed the BB yet..