I'm converting my conversion back to a road bike

ah mate, the colour reminds me too much of the tony doyle. May she rest in peace, more likely to rust in piece though (megadeth) or even rest in pain (sepultura)!!

Personally I can't stand your bartape, looks like something bucks fizz would have worn on top of the pops.

Yeah! It's a bit kitsch but I'm loving it! It's all about Cipollini!

yep, roberto's well ahead of his time.

btw, yes the GFX on that frame are 100% wickedo, awesome, lovely, you get the picture.

yep, roberto's well ahead of his time.

btw, yes the GFX on that frame are 100% wickedo, awesome, lovely, you get the picture.

It's love it or hate it stuff. Takes some warming to. I'm really into detailed spray jobs and graphics.
I just think it's a shame that almost every bike I see is a solid colour right now. Don't get me wrong, I love how clean it looks but there's something about those old Italian frames.
Are there any frame sprayers offering resprays like this anymore? Bit of net stenciling and fades. ;-)

On this topic, sort of,

What the general consensus on re-spacing the rear of an old mercian? I've got this 1960 mercian (KOM?) which needs a bit of love. I've got a whole heap of old shimano road kit, no money and feel like the only way it's going to get ridden is if i re-space the rear from 120 to 130mm and shove on the shimano stuff. I was thinking about it as a kind of long range tourer or something. Otherwise, i'll leave it as it is, get it sprayed at some point and then sell it.

In moustache bars we trust,

Chris

http://www.sheldonbrown.com/frame-spacing.html

Ta,

i'm fie actually cold setting it. Just wonder if i should mess with an old frame. I think i'll just go ahead as planned. Can't hurt, can it?

Chris

shouldn't be a problem. make sure you measure everything loads, to prevent damage.

I've got this track bike which came with a converted road hub, i.e redished and spaced to 120mm, I have been told that that works on the track. However, I intend to use it on the street and therefore, suicide is not the way to go.

Would it be worth the hassle to convert the rear wheel back to a road wheel?

How would I go ahead and do it?
What would it be worth if I sold it?

Mavic Mach 2 CD2-rims with 32H lowflange campagnolo hubs (athena?) with barely used Vredestein Fortezza Pro, the spokes has SAP writing on them, which I guess stands for Sapim?

Pics: http://www.flickr.com/photos/41284201@N05/sets/72157625782095282/

That is one lustrious looking frame.

Unscrew the track cog, replace it with a singlespeed freewheel with same number of teeth. It wouldn't detract from the value - just pop the original cog back on if you wanna sell it.

Unless by 'road wheel' you mean 'fixed hub wheel' (the wheel that you've already got is a road wheel). In which case, just get a proper fixed-hub rear wheel and put the cog on it. Then if you wanna sell it, swap the original wheel back on.

Unless I'm missing something in your post, that's all you need to do. You need two brakes if singlespeed though, and there's no way of fitting them to that frame, so it'd have to be a clip-on front brake (and I don't think you can get clip-on rear brakes so you'll have to run fixed-gear to be legal and safe... unless you build a rear wheel with a drum or coaster brake)

TBH even that is a bit much, assuming your only plan is to sell.

If I wanted to sell it, I'd just take the cog off and sell it as a; "120mm rear wheel for a vintage road bike, single speed, or even a suiside fixed gear for track only use."

Then just add in the description that the axle can be re-spaced upto whatever it can be respaced to.

If you really want you can find the correct hub spacers and re-space it upto 126mm or 130mm - whatever it can take really. Then loosen all the spokes, re-dish and then true. You could even source the correct screw on hub that statisticaly has the most likely range of gear ratios your buyer is going to want and attached it. However, as it looks like it has a solid axle rather than QR, you'd probably have to change that too, to make the prospective buyer happy.

But tbh I just don't see why you'd bother doing any of that when it's unlikely to get you much more cash for it.

Price. Who knows. I bought an awesome set of cxp33/ultega's for £80 off here. So half that on a good day?

Personally, I would re-build the rear with a proper fixed hub that matches the front. Those rims aren't that common any more and it matches the front. I'm assuming you're going to buy a rear wheel anyway, so it's a win win.

But before I did any of that, I'd double check that it is not a normal track hub and who ever sold it to me didn't just make a mistake.

Yeah, if it has a lockring or thread for a lockring, then it's a proper fixed hub.

I am probably buying a whole new wheel set, since tubs would be too much of a hassle for street use.
Was just thinking about how I could sell them the easiest.

It hasn't got a lockring thread on the rear hub, so it's a road hub alright.
Wouldn't it be too much of a hassle to use tubulars for street use?

I'm in a process of buying a bike which has been converted to a single speed. I don't really know very much about bikes so my question is how hard is to convert back to a geared bike and how much roughly should it set me back? Do i need an entire groupset?

This is the bike

Thanks

also how much do you guys reckon i should pay for this bike?

Difficult to say but probably worth £150 - 200 if the parts are okay and frame is totally clean and undamaged. Some folk would pay more 'cos its a Condor, but it looks like a basic functional ally framed job to me.

To go back to geared you would need derailleurs, shifters/brake levers/bars, cassette, possibly new rear wheel.

Edit - just noticed the brakes. It's a cyclocross bike. Flee!

You've opened two threads on this bumcheese. Dont open any more! At least this one is in the right (ish) place.

Is that a cassette with a single sprocket or is it a SS hub?
Possibly new rear wheel £40 + cassette £25 ish. Or around £75 for a fully built up 9spd wheel.
Rear derailleur £30, you don't need a front one unless you're going for a double chainring but thats another £20 + chainrings etc.
If you keep those bars you'll need a bar end shifter £40.
If you change the bars thats £25 for the bars and £40 for a pair of STI's
Cables are gonna set you back pennies.

All depends if you need to change the rear wheel and change the bars.

OP has started two threads.

More appropriate place is https://www.lfgss.com/thread63245.html

Would suggest this one be closed Lord Hippy

What I said in other thread:

Difficult to say but probably worth £150 - 200 if the parts are okay and frame is totally clean and undamaged. Some folk would pay more 'cos its a Condor, but it looks like a basic functional ally framed job to me.

To go back to geared you would need derailleurs, shifters/brake levers/bars, cassette, possibly new rear wheel.

Edit - just noticed the brakes. It's a cyclocross bike. Flee!

Now don't open any more bleedin threads!

FFs.

Have this again

Is that a cassette with a single sprocket or is it a SS hub?
Possibly new rear wheel £40 + cassette £25 ish. Or around £75 for a fully built up 9spd wheel.
Rear derailleur £30, you don't need a front one unless you're going for a double chainring but thats another £20 + chainrings etc.
If you keep those bars you'll need a bar end shifter £40.
If you change the bars thats £25 for the bars and £40 for a pair of STI's
Cables are gonna set you back pennies.

All depends if you need to change the rear wheel and change the bars.

yeah sorry about that, whats wrong with a cyclocross by the by?