I think I have the same meter although I've lost the instructions and don't remember what they looked like - I don't understand the problem. The green needle is used to match the red needle that responds to the light cell. Then you read off the values. If the light conditions are the same, the red needle will be the same, therefore you should position the green needle in the same place. You can change ISO and so on so long as you don't move the green needle (ie. keep hold of the outer bit of the dial).
The EV reading shows a particular relationship between aperture and speed eg. EV 15 = f16:1/125s = f11:1/250s etc is always true, regardless of ISO. They do not tell you about the light reading in themselves, but the meter will tell you the right EV for a given ISO and light condition.
The guesswork EV values you are used to for particular light conditions (eg. EV15=Sunny16) are valid for ISO100. For EV15 to be 'right' for ISO1600 you would need 4 stops less light (which is where the green needle is in the second photo). If you are using ISO1600 when EV15 works for ISO100 (Sunny16), you need to be 4 stops on, at EV19 (f16:1/2000 = f22:1/1000 etc). Try moving the dial around and see which relationships are fixed. Does that make any sense?
One thing I have noticed with mine is it is fine for reflected readings but I don't use it for incident.
I think I have the same meter although I've lost the instructions and don't remember what they looked like - I don't understand the problem. The green needle is used to match the red needle that responds to the light cell. Then you read off the values. If the light conditions are the same, the red needle will be the same, therefore you should position the green needle in the same place. You can change ISO and so on so long as you don't move the green needle (ie. keep hold of the outer bit of the dial).
The EV reading shows a particular relationship between aperture and speed eg. EV 15 = f16:1/125s = f11:1/250s etc is always true, regardless of ISO. They do not tell you about the light reading in themselves, but the meter will tell you the right EV for a given ISO and light condition.
The guesswork EV values you are used to for particular light conditions (eg. EV15=Sunny16) are valid for ISO100. For EV15 to be 'right' for ISO1600 you would need 4 stops less light (which is where the green needle is in the second photo). If you are using ISO1600 when EV15 works for ISO100 (Sunny16), you need to be 4 stops on, at EV19 (f16:1/2000 = f22:1/1000 etc). Try moving the dial around and see which relationships are fixed. Does that make any sense?
One thing I have noticed with mine is it is fine for reflected readings but I don't use it for incident.