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• #2
A. You're not an idiot. You're just a newbie.
B. I highly doubt you have damaged teeth on either your chainring or sprocket (freewheel). Unless you can actually see a substantial amount of wear i would recommend keeping to your current bits.
C. A new chain should sort your problem. If your wheel axle is sliding back without a increase in the number of link in the chain, its due to wear, which makes it look as if the chain is stretching. Don't forget to lube that badboy up, metal on metal is a bitch.
D. If you want to make hill climbing easier you can sacrifice top speed for higher acceleration and a more spinny gear if you either; replace the chainring with a one with fewer teeth or replace the sprocket (freewheel) for one with a higher number of teeth.
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• #3
A, thanks but you havent met me ;)
B good!
C, new chain or take a couple of links out of existing chain?
D, no I wanted to go the other way with a little more top speed. so Im assuming chainring with more teeth eg 49 or sprocket with one extra... which is the better option
Thanks
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• #4
Id say a new chain.
There are tools online use can use to tweak your GI (gear Inches)http://software.bareknucklebrigade.com/rabbit.applet.html
If you want a higher top speed you need to swap a chainring for one with more teeth, or the sprocket for one with less teeth.
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• #5
You're on 48x16, it's "pretty hilly" round your way and you want to up the gearing?? Fair play to you. If by "compact chainrings" you mean 130BCD when I was looking for one a little while ago the only one I could really find was the Stronglight available here: http://www.ribblecycles.co.uk/sp/road-track-bike/Chainrings-Stronglight-Zicral-Chainring-Track-1-8-130-Black/STROCHRI255 for pretty cheap. Also if you go for a bigger chainring you wouldn't need a new chain, tho it might be nice to get one in any case. I'd say changing the chainring would be easier than changing the freewheel, but I've never tried. You'd have to get one of these: http://www.parktool.com/product/freewheel-remover-5 or similar, and an adjustable/correctly-sized wrench.
And you're quite right, that is a foul looking bike. I see one round Manchester, cheap is definitely the word. But if you like it... :) -
• #6
I have never met you, but if it really is hilly around you then I can pretty much guarantee you don't need a gear bigger than an ~80inches, I believe that is an acceptable gear for outdoor tracks, not hills. You may be pushing harder on the pedals but you might be going quite a bit slower. Chapeau though.
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• #7
Ok so the chain fitting is not going well.
fitted it succesfully onto the freewheel side, but have decided to go fixed so whipped wheel out and switched it round BUT the chain doesnt fit on the fixed sprocket!
look
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• #8
look where?
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• #9
have a look on youtube or the park tool website re fitting chains
you probably cannot have a huge difference in the number of teeth on your sprockets if you are flipping the wheel around.
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• #10
Without pictures two things come to mind;
1) the fixed sprocket is bigger and/or you have taken too many links out and it doesn't fit. In this case you need to add more;
2) you're not putting the chain on correctly.
Listen to Prancer - youtube, parks, and ehow.com. Watching a few videos will explain more than an message board.
Good luck.
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• #11
Maybe the fixed sprocket is 1/8th.
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• #12
Listen to Prancer -
Good luck.
You know someone is screwed when this is the advice they get!
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• #13
sorry here is the picture,
its not too short its almost too thin??
I have had a look around and have fitted the chain fine! and have done many motorcycle chains.
but dont understand why it would fit on one side and not the other!?surely a bike with a flipflop hub wouldnt make you have to switch the chain everytime?
in the image you can see furthest away the chain on the freewheel sprocket and using a length I had removed you can see how no way is it fitting on the fixed side.
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• #14
There are two types of chain.
1/8 and 3/32.
1/8 is the standard track size and 3/32 is road.
I have no idea why they would sell a bike with 3/32 on one side and 1/8 on the other, it's retarded. Does your old/original chain fit around both sides of the fixed cog.
You can use a 1/8 chain with 3/32 cogs but not the other way around.
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• #15
Looks like chain 3/32 and sprocket 1/8.
Are you sure you want to go 48:18 though? You will need thighs of steel to get that away from the lights! -
• #16
Low 70's. I think not.
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• #17
hmm looks like this could be the problem! wrong size!
http://www.wiggle.co.uk/kmc-z610-hx-silver-chain/ - 1/2 X 3/32. 112 links
The original chain fits both sides fine!
is this one just fitting on the freewheel because its worn?
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• #18
in response to the ratio questions, i was thinking of changing because on many of the flats and downhills I feel like i just cant move my legs any faster, and there are no hills that I really struggle up except one at the end. it took me about 4 months to get fit and strong enough to do it!
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• #19
My guess would be:
Freewheel 3/32
Fixed cog 1/8
Original chain 1/8.You can either buy a new fixed cog, 3/32 or swap for a new chain, 1/8 if you really want to move away from the freewheel.
Why not get a 17t 3/32 and see how you find that? -
• #20
^^ I know those roads well, I went to school in Duffield. Up the gear a bit and it sounds like you might end up pushing up the last hill, but enjoy the rest of the ride more. Your decision on if you'll be happy to do that really.
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• #21
walm - that sounds like a decent idea is this what I want http://www.wiggle.co.uk/miche-fixed-track-sprocket/ in a 17t 3/32.
RHB - yeh its a nice run about 35mins at the mo but as I say I reckon I could get it down a bit with the right gearing...maybe
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• #22
That one looks fine but you would need to buy the miche track sprocket carrier for a fiver too.
This one would just swap: http://www.jejamescycles.co.uk/surly-track-cog-item45408.htmlIf you aren't going to a LBS to get the sprocket changed you will need a lockring tool to get the lockring off (and back on again). Plus a chainwhip (or you might want to google rotafix).
Ok hi everyone firstly I apologise for having such a cheap tacky horrible looking bike!
(I like it though ;) )
http://www.evanscycles.com/products/mongoose/maurice-cromo-2010-single-speed-road-bike-ec020881?query=maurice
However its been great for me on my commute doing 20 miles a day, however I have a loose chain and no more room to move my rear wheel or it will fall off, Im not that much of an idiot... probably!
I was planning to get a chain tool and take a couple of links out. however a guy I know saidthis to me
"[FONT=Arial][SIZE=2]Rule of thumb is change your rear cog/cassette every 2nd chain and the rings every 3rd/5th depending on usage – obviously snapped/broken chains don’t count, as a chain should last 500-1000 miles."
[/SIZE][/FONT]now i didnt realise this and have done approx 2500 miles on my current chain...[FONT=Arial][SIZE=2]
[/SIZE][/FONT]so firstly do I need new everything? if so what would anyone reccomend, I cant seem to find many 48t compact chainrings, and what bits do i need to swap out to replace the Dicta 16t?
I have been riding SS rather than fixed as its pretty hilly round my way, and finnally if I wanted to make it slightly easier to pedal at a higher speed and harder uphill what is the best way of achieving that?
Thanks[FONT=Arial][SIZE=2]
[/SIZE][/FONT]