Loose Bearing BB (Old Raleigh), upgrade or use?

Hi

I think I've gone as far as I can with Sheldon and previous posts. I apologise for the bombardment of questions, I'm out of my depth and I don't know which route to take. Any help greatly appreciated.

I'm converting a salvaged 1986 Raleigh Medale, with 120 dropouts: the BB is a loose bearing type with 26 TPI threading in a 71mm shell. It has a large 127.5mm asymmetric spindle (stamped 5S B-8). After cleaning, everything is in good nick, and I'm wondering which of the following options to take. ( I should point out that Phil Wood catridges are probably out of my price range)

Firstly, does anyone know whether the square taper is likely to be ISO or JIS? Here's a picture if it helps...

Secondly, is there any problem with swapping the axle round, so that the large side (that originally held the crankset) is on the left, and the short side is used to hold the crankset. I'm going to use something like zenith hubs, and it looks like i'm currently waaay off the 42mm chain line required. However, I think I maybe might make it with spacers on the spider and using the small side of the spindle (I think frame clearance should be ok). Is this realistic?

The other alternative, suggested by sheldon is to get a new, shorter japanese spindle with a code beginning in 5, however I can't track these down anywhere. Any idea of stockists to try?

Or should I bite the (financial) bullet and get the shell thread recut. Quotes in Southampton seem to be over 100 pounds for this?! And wouldn't I still be left with an oversized shell? Everything seems to be designed for a 68mm shell. Is a 71mm shell with 24 TPI compatable with anything?

Any help would be greatly appreciated. I'm trying to muddle through this voyage of discovery myself after the LBS spent 15 mins belittling me and basically trying to make me hand over the frame and a blank cheque.

The taper is likely to be JIS. If the bearing surfaces inside the cups aren't pitted, I'd spend a couple of quid on some new ballbearings from the bike shop and reuse them rather than getting the shell recut.

But, turning the axle around probably isn't the best idea. You can try it, but the left pedal would be a few mm further out than it should be, and it might not give you a decent chainline anyway. You'd probably be better off getting a new axle, but it can be trial and error finding the right one. If you can find a helpful LBS they might be able to let you try some.

Shorter axles are available on Ebay: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Bike-bottom-bracket-cycle-crank-axle-various-lengths-/170469934421?pt=UK_sportsleisure_cycling_bikeparts_SR&var=&hash=item6d6e503430

It sounds like they want to tap it out to italian size threads, this isn't so good as italian bbs aren't so common. When I do it, I cut italian threads into the shell, then put in a threaded insert with standard 24tpi british threads on the inside. Works really well, has saved many a frame with borked bb thread. I usually charge £50, but as I'm in Edinburgh you'd have to ship it too. Usually that's 20-30 return depending on insurance etc. Argos Racing Cycles in Bristol do the same thing for £75. I'd try a different axle, 75 is a lot of money to spend on a raleigh medale!

Velo Orange Grand Cru Threadless will fit a Raleigh 71mm shell. If they don't have the right width axle then perhaps try Velo Orange direct (although shipping from the US might be expensive)

http://www.freshtripe.co.uk/Freshtripe/Drivetrain.html

You can get cheaper threadless ones (like YST) but mine kept coming loose, meaning I had to remove the cranks to tighten which eventually buggered up the taper holes. Replaced with a VO one and it never came loose, and if it did, you can tighten without removing the cranks because you can do it with a lockring spanner.

I'd try flipping the axle first. It might work fine and you've got nothing to lose. Or an ebay axle. Old-school bike shops often sell, or can get hold of, the right kind of axle, too.

you could get a new sealed b/b depending on which style crankset you are fitting either shimano or the campag veloce. Spindle length will be dependent on the crank set up and gearing, but your existing one should give an indication also your LBS should help.

^ they don't make new BBs in 26tpi threading (IIRC) except the mega expensive Phil Woods. And even then you'd still need to turn down the shell from 71mm to 68mm (unless the Phil ones come in 71mm... I don't think they do).

FYI, after my comments counseling against it above, I flipped an axle round in a bike I put together over the weekend. It isn't too bad. I used an axle from a double so the left crank sticks out about 5mm more than it ought, but it doesn't make much difference to the ride, and if anything is kind of handy as it means I can adjust the BB cup without removing the crank. Using the shorter end for the right crank gives me an almost perfect chainline too.

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