If I'm reading that right. For those who care about their wallets as much as their lumens, the Trail tech wins it. Interesting that a somewhat old tech halogen system comes out on top. I'm in the process of ditching my halogen gear, as I've long past the maximum I'd like to have paid in maintainance.
My biggest worry going over to powerful LED, is the nature of the light. I read somewhere that the warmer light from halogen sources, as opposed to the blueish LED light, is better for the human eye to use. No big deal on dark roads, but on the trail, and in extreme winter conditions. Making the right decision about the surface ahead is pretty vital.
I have some 'warm glow' LEDs in the house which look the same as the halogens they replaced, though. So maybe this is the usual internet BS.
Anyway a true light test would include:
A) How often you need to readjust the light unit because of slippage
B) How often is your light turned off by pixies (keeps happening to me, bastard pixies)
C) How easy is it to connect battery leads without crushing them
D) Are the leads made out of brittle shite.
E) Do the switch cope with repeated use, so you dont end of with a expensive, fully functional light, that you just cant turn on (have this as well, probs also pixies, feckers!)
If I'm reading that right. For those who care about their wallets as much as their lumens, the Trail tech wins it. Interesting that a somewhat old tech halogen system comes out on top. I'm in the process of ditching my halogen gear, as I've long past the maximum I'd like to have paid in maintainance.
My biggest worry going over to powerful LED, is the nature of the light. I read somewhere that the warmer light from halogen sources, as opposed to the blueish LED light, is better for the human eye to use. No big deal on dark roads, but on the trail, and in extreme winter conditions. Making the right decision about the surface ahead is pretty vital.
I have some 'warm glow' LEDs in the house which look the same as the halogens they replaced, though. So maybe this is the usual internet BS.
Anyway a true light test would include:
A) How often you need to readjust the light unit because of slippage
B) How often is your light turned off by pixies (keeps happening to me, bastard pixies)
C) How easy is it to connect battery leads without crushing them
D) Are the leads made out of brittle shite.
E) Do the switch cope with repeated use, so you dont end of with a expensive, fully functional light, that you just cant turn on (have this as well, probs also pixies, feckers!)