Bike stickers and decals

Here are the instructions which come with Cyclomondo transfers.

They don't mention oven baked finishes.

I had a bike painted that way last year using his decals and it came out fine.

Application Instructions:

*Thanks for purchasing Cyclomondo’s decals and hopefully together we can restore, refurbish *and rescue many beautiful vintage frames.

The 1st rule in applying the decals is do not soak them in water.

The 2nd rule is do not soak them in water!

*These decals have an adhesive which is water resistant and are basically peel and stick **Saying that, there are some important processes that you should adhere to so as to make *this a smooth exercise.

*Trim any excess of the decal, or separate individual decals that share the same sheet, with *scissors making sure you don’t cut into the printed area.

*Then, clean the area of the frame with a dilute solution of water and detergent (common **dishwashing liquid is fine – just a couple of drops in a bowl or cup/glass) and wipe clean *with cotton.

Now you have to make the choice of whether you do a dry application or wet application.

*A dry application is where the decal goes onto a dry frame. The benefits of this method are **in that the frame can be clear-coated (if you wish but not necessary) without waiting a long **period for any moisture to dry from under the decal. The disadvantage is that you only get *one chance to get it right, as once stuck, the decal can’t be moved.

*A wet application allows a more forgiving application technique, but if you are to apply a **clear-coat, then you should wait a lengthy time after application so as the clear-coat isn’t *spoiled by residual moisture.

*If you encounter any problems peeling the decal off the backing paper try using a sewing *needle or fine tweezers to pull up one edge of the decal.

*For a wet application, wet the frame area again with the same dilute solution of water/ **detergent so as it’s pretty wet and then peel the backing paper off the decal (usually **marked ‘Avery’) and then stick the decal onto the frame. Being wet and slippery allows the **decal to be slid into position if it is not straight and also allows any trapped bubbles to be *squeezed out. The water/detergent solution does not harm the adhesive on the decal – in
fact it will probably be stuck firmer once everything is dry.

*It is important to not have the decal ‘grab’ or stick in the wrong position. I use the finest **vinyl available and any thinner and it potentially distort like cling wrap. Thin vinyl is essential **to imitate the quality of the tricky water slide transfers and also the pressure rub application **type as well. The decals are sound and strong, wont break or crack, as long as they don’t *have to be removed from the frame due to bad positioning on a dry paint surface.

*For decals that have transparent application tape over them – such as you would find with a **series of letters such as a down tube decal saying COLNAGO or MERCKX for example, then **application is basically the same process plus one more step. Wet the frame area, peel off **the ‘Avery’ backing paper, apply the decals which are attached to transparent application **tape to the frame and position, smooth out and let sit for several hours. When confident that **decals are stuck, then grab the corner of the application tape and peel at an acute angle **away from the frame leaving the decals installed. If there are any air bubbles that may be **trapped (unusual), if they cannot be massaged out of the decal then a simple pin prick to the centre of the bubble, followed by a squeezing out of the air and a smoothing will cure the problem.*

*The decals are heat foil printed in a dry print process which makes them color fast and UV **safe which in comparison to normal commercial inkjet printing is near ideal. Clear coating is *safe but not essential as long as the usual guidelines are followed and heavy solvents aren’t
used in the preparation. Thin mist of clear, followed by a heavier coat.

*If you have used a wet method of application, allow at least a week for any moisture to *disappear before clear-coating.

Hope this helps!

*I am always available at gtsoftley@ozemail.com.au for any distress calls!*

Greg Softley (Cyclomondo)