• I have a Goldtec track hub (front, 36 hole) and CXP33 rim which I'd like building up (3 x pattern).

    I don't have any spokes but would be after some DT Swiss ones. Apparently also need long spoke nipples.

    Does anyone know where / who could build this up for me? The parts were sat in A E Wilson in Peckham for the past 2 weeks but they couldn't seem to get it done for some reason...

    I live in Peckham so local would be better (bike out of action at the moment), but I can travel too.

    Thanks.

  • Use the spoke calculator, decide how many crosses you want and have a crack yourself after watching the YouTube footage.

  • Yep.

    You won't fuck it up, if you can't get it right, someone else can true and tension it for you.

  • Use the spoke calculator, decide how many crosses you want and have a crack yourself after watching the YouTube footage.

    This, or pm Arup, he's in that direction.

  • Or PM Broken_777 and see if he has availability

  • +1 there, get yourself a six pack and a couple of reasonable movies and away you go.

  • What they said, I built my first one on Saturday using a spoke calc and Sheldon's instructions and I haven't fucked it up, it was a little scary - but once you get going it's really not that hard

  • Thanks for the info, I sent an email to Arup.

    If I did do it myself, how much would the tools come to in total?

  • Or go to Brixton Cycles. Hillbilly is an ace wheelbuilder.

  • £500

    Park Tools TS2
    Park Dishing Tool
    Park Spoke Tension Meter
    Park Spoke Key
    Pedros Nipple Driver

  • If unlike Dov you don't have a fuck load of money to spend on these things

    a spoke key will cost you a couple of quid
    a screwdriver
    use your forks as a truing stand

    that's it really.

    My great grandad used to work in A E Wilson in the early 1900's, he got 3 years hard labour for fiddling the books ..true story.

  • Yeah, a screwdriver, a spoke key and some patience are pretty cheap. A wheel truing stand helps, although it is possible to do it in the frame. And to get the tension even I would recommend a spoke tension meter but you don't need one to get the wheel straight or the overall tension right.

  • I think mmccarthy does it with a couple of plastic forks.

  • if you bring them to souths tonight, i will do it on the spot £10. spokes are 288mm from memory for 3x, with 12mm nipples.

  • ^ Bite his hand off.

    It's a good deal and Dale knows what he's doing.

  • ^ this.

  • 36 holes would be 285mm
    32 holes would be 289mm
    http://lenni.info/edd/

  • Thanks dogsballs. PM'd.

    I think I need long nipples (that's what they said at A E Wilson), and not sure if the spoke length would be 288 or 285... (the Edd calculator above says "ERD is Mavic's Nipple Seat Dia + 3mm for nipples).

  • Get yourself a decent spoke key, preferably one which drives the nip on 3 or 4 corners- the type which you need to slide onto the spoke, then down onto the nip.

    Amusingly, T und S (my favourite German shop) offer VAR nip keys which google translate offers as nipple clamps.......

  • i assumed 32h, so 36h would be 286mm (you can't get odd length spokes (unless cut)

  • ^ Dogsballs built nice wheels for me

  • Thanks dogsballs. PM'd.

    I think I need long nipples (that's what they said at A E Wilson), and not sure if the spoke length would be 288 or 285... (the Edd calculator above says "ERD is Mavic's Nipple Seat Dia + 3mm for nipples).

    You dont need long nipples for CXP33s I have some I built myself with standard nips.

  • did this get resolved yet.
    i would be willing to help show you how to build a wheel

  • Hope you get it sorted mate, i started building my own wheels not too long ago and with a bit of patience its no biggie.

    As for this statement;

    "the Edd calculator above says "ERD is Mavic's Nipple Seat Dia + 3mm for nipples"

    be wary as i had a smilar statement pop up on the spoke calc when i built some rigida DP18's and bought 280mm spokes (as the spoke calc told me to) and found they were too long and ended up using 278mm's instead. I think this statement means you should subtract the 3mm off the answer? It should/could/would be nice if it was incorporated into the final equation but it obviously wasn't when i used it.

    If anyone could give a definitive answer on this i'd appreciate it - i've built several wheels since and not had any problems with the calculated spoke length but all these more recent wheels have not had the statement above attached to the rim info.

    I noticed your in Peckham - i live in Canada water and have 3 wheels to build up this weekend if you want to sit in for a bit to see whats involved?

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Need a wheel builder please - Goldtec on CXP33 build

Posted by Avatar for Chris. @Chris.

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