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@number6
@ stedlocks - lovely tourer -
@ crank works , nice SS - i've seen that frame as sun, roayl enfield, Raleigh, and BSA, i had a great treking fixie on one a bit back - watch the pump pegs catching legs / trousers though - i had to nip mine off as well as cable stops for brake cable. the frame has a 73mm BB which can be a pain to replace. one thing to watch for that SS conversion method is not to get chain line too far right (down the cogs to the smaller cogs) - i've had chains try to change up to the next biggest cog and with a fixed chain length somethings got to give - in my case the axle broke. keep chain tight and listen and feel for any snagging - if you let the chain become a little loose that small snag may turn into a shift up the cogs at the rear and with unpleasant results.
@ skully - the gear change is : get off bike and loosen rear QR, derail chain by hand while walking the bike back / forward always going down to smaller chain wheel or cog before going up on other side - then tension chain whilst centering the wheel (i have a wedge device in my head that might make that bit easier - i might build ) and lock QR again .only had one short shake down so far - i might find more art to it.
the old hanger bodge seen on pic above keeps both sides of the wheel in the dropouts while i'm walking it forward / backward pushing the chain sideways - without it you can walk the wheel out of the dropouts causing extra hassle to the gear change. i'd ideally envisage entirely closed loops at rear of bike (remove skewer and prise rear end open to get wheel out for puncture repair ) to keep wheel firmly in bike whilst changing gear. it might be easier to losen QR and bring wheel forward to loosen chain, then lock QR again - then do your walk forward & backward whilst pushing chain dance to change gear - then center and tension wheel before finally locking - this prevents the tyre rubbing up on the chain stay whilst changing the gear
all 3 cogs are welded together and spun rotafix onto a standard freewheel thread on old road hub (gipiemme sprint record clone in this case). the hub thread goes all the way through the 18t and 1/2 way through the 16t. (hence the welded cogs must line up - weld whilst threaded together on a BB cup )
and to stop chain derailing on the dropout side of the rear and getting chain sucked in whilst changing gear (plus to give some small extra lock to the cog cluster) i've put in the non drive side cup off a cartridge BB into the thread on the 12t and then halfway into the 16t cog - on the photo (the dark angled one up there ^ http://static.lfgss.com/attachments/31618d1286215930-sl377813.jpg ) it looks like there is a bit of thread sticking out from the hub - it's not - that's the BB cup . i cut it to fit, it's only half the width of a normal BB cup - but with more room and maybe using a full width steel BB cup it could potentially take a 4th cog or a BB lockring. spacing is 130mm oln - i cold set the frame out (i wouldn't normally bother) but it makes gear changes easier as otherwise the frame still slightly grips the alxe lock nuts even when QR is released