What is the most authentic place to ride?

On a serious note, the best place to ride isn't a place at all - it's at night. I've recently taken to a quick burn late at night. Lovely feeling, buildings all lit up, space, time, no light, lovely stuff.

Yep - in the week I usually finish work any time after midnight. Once last week I experienced the city at 5.30pm... wowzers. I don't envy you 9-5ers. Glad my usual weekday commute is 3pm.