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  • that's how i got em mate. ask the guy who used to race in em. suited him just fine.

    spoked radial on the rear non-drive side. 2 cross on the drive side tied and soldered.

    Tied & soldered makes pretty much no difference to strength. It was originally done to prevent spokes flying around when they broke.

    On track hubs where the flange offset is symmetrical and the flanges are the same height, making the non-drive side radial makes no sense because both flanges take the same tension & stress. You can get away with it (and/or lighter spokes) on heavily dished rear wheels because the drive side flange is closer to vertical and more highly stressed so there's less chance of the radial spokes on the non-drive side breaking the hub flange.

    Of course, if they work, they work - I'm a pretty heavy rider and the Mavic Aksium Race wheels on my road bike are 20H bladed spokes, radial front and radial on the non-drive side of the rear, and they haven't gone out of true in the 9 months I've been riding them. But failure from radial spoking is a fatigue failure so it's not like it'll happen straight away, and modern spokes are a lot stronger than old ones.

    waits for mdcc-tester to correct me

  • i think you have a valid point there Regal

  • waits for mdcc-tester to correct me

    Can't see anything to quibble with, except that pretty much all spoke failure is due to fatigue, it's not specific to radial.

  • These cranks are very questionable.

    What questions would you like to ask them?

  • What questions would you like to ask them?

    "Hey, what zipp?"

  • What questions would you like to ask them?

    I think it was in durability stakes. I looked at getting some a while back and the testimonials weren't great at all.

  • Depends what you compare them with - they were positively bomb proof compared with comparable contemporaneous Stronglight cranks.

  • should be? no confidence? doesn't that word underline exceptions which is what I was trying to point out...

    I'm amazed to see how some people still think of carbon fibre like it's some kind of witchcraft.. No, cf was not invented by the reptilians to wipe out humanity one failing bike part at a time.

  • Silly bartape, but still....

  • why a compact though?

    Bit of a let down, having a compact on such a speed focused build, true.

  • ^^ @ At Nuknow, luverly, what is it?

  • Can't see anything to quibble with, except that pretty much all spoke failure is due to fatigue, it's not specific to radial.

    Indeed, I actually meant hub flange failure due to radial spoking is also a fatigue failure but I didn't write it very clearly.

  • i thought all spoke failure was due to bad wheelbuilding

  • Tied & soldered makes pretty much no difference to strength. It was originally done to prevent spokes flying around when they broke.

    tying and soldering does actually affect the strength of the wheelbuild, while doing tricks, 180's and jumping stairs and stuff like that wheels get really stressed a lot, before i tied and soldered all the wheels in our trickbikes we had the wheels go bad really soon like within a week maybe two. The tied and soldered wheels last months and months before i have to true them again

  • how do you true a tied and soldered wheel?..

  • Like any other wheel...

  • i thought all spoke failure was due to bad wheelbuilding

    More often it's because the rider is too heavy and/or the intended use is harder than the design of the wheel is suited to. Low spoke counts and cheap plain gauge spokes are common causes (butted spokes are much stronger and move the stresses to the centre of the spoke - most breakages happen at the elbow or the thread).

  • tying and soldering does actually affect the strength of the wheelbuild, while doing tricks, 180's and jumping stairs and stuff like that wheels get really stressed a lot, before i tied and soldered all the wheels in our trickbikes we had the wheels go bad really soon like within a week maybe two. The tied and soldered wheels last months and months before i have to true them again

    Interesting. Tying & soldering does stop crossed spokes moving around and rubbing against each other but that's not really an issue on road/track bikes. I wonder if the hard impacts are de-tensioning the spokes to such an extent that they benefit from being tied. But if that was the case I'd have thought that the wheel would be right on the edge of collapse anyway.

    Are these 700c wheels you're talking about? Smaller rim diameter and higher spoke count would make a much bigger difference to stiffness & strength than tying the spokes.

  • I wonder if the hard impacts are de-tensioning the spokes to such an extent that they benefit from being tied.

    This^

    The spokes on a radially laced wheel are even more prone to detensioning. Which is why nipple-lock is highly recomended for radial spokes. I guess a low profile rim would increase this affect. Which is why I have never liked radially laced low profile wheels.

    But if the owner's happy. Then maybe these effects are small.

  • how do you true a tied and soldered wheel?..

    Like any other wheel...

    Exactly.
    Your working at the rim, so adjustments work in the same way.

  • i wish my bike looked like some of these

  • Interesting. Tying & soldering does stop crossed spokes moving around and rubbing against each other but that's not really an issue on road/track bikes. I wonder if the hard impacts are de-tensioning the spokes to such an extent that they benefit from being tied. But if that was the case I'd have thought that the wheel would be right on the edge of collapse anyway.

    Are these 700c wheels you're talking about? Smaller rim diameter and higher spoke count would make a much bigger difference to stiffness & strength than tying the spokes.

    hard impacts were indeed loosening up the nipples and getting the wheel out of true, pairing up the spokes with the tying reduced this effect a lot, i also think the tied wheels can handle sideways impacts better when 180's are something like that are landed badly.
    i am talking about 700c wheels and same goes for 26inch, deep v's with high flange hubs 32 or 36 spokes, i would recommend tying and soldering for all wheels meant for tricks even the 48 spokes ones as i have seen oskar's spokes gone loose as well

  • Build are so-so apart from the wheelset, but it's not often you seen a chromeroller;

  • what exactly is porn in that pic, please Ed?

  • ooof!

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