Wanted: A few bits

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  • Putting together a classic geared beater-ish bike, spent a bit too much on it already so anyone got cheapies going of the following?

    • 1" silver threaded headset
    • Single leather toestraps
    • Rear mech down tube cable guide (see below)
    • Brake cable runners for top tube
    • 27.2 silver (fluted?) seat post, fairly long
    • Drops, preferably with cable grooves, 40cm, 25.4 clamp

    Can pick up from London town or receive parcels in the post.

  • if you want a silver threaded headset i've got a loose bearing campag number and some 3ttt bars that you could have for cheap - i feel i owe you for the crimped seatube incident....

    how is the old thing anyway?

  • Haha dude it's fine, totally forgot about that! Serving me well thanks.

    Might have a cheapo headset sorted, could be into the bars though, you at work tomorrow/tues daytimes?

  • tuesday would be best, give me a beep and i'll meet you upstairs

  • I also need one of these that isn't NOS CAMPAG WOW £30+. Just chrome and functional.

  • I have one them if at all interested. Pm on it's way.

    I also need one of these that isn't NOS CAMPAG WOW £30+. Just chrome and functional.

  • Never got a PM, colnago_costa. I only want to spend a few quid on one of these so probably not a shiny Campag one.

  • Bumpsorry... anyone got one of these downtube gear cable guides ^ ?

  • Cheers, but does it route upwards for the front mech? (I'm new to geared building.. surprise surprise)

  • Good question. It looks like it was made for the old style of front changer. It has a cable stop, into which you probably put a piece of outer cable and then run it to the front changer. I used to have an old campag changer which worked like this, and I have an old Sun Tour AR front changer which is similar. Have a look at your front changer and see if there is a little boss which takes the outer cable, and which then allows the inner cable from there up to the pinch bolt. If there is, then this would work.

    If not, then you need to get something that looks more like the one you have in your picture. Alternatively, you can run the cables under the bottom bracket, using a plastic tunnel like this: http://www.probikekit.com/display.php?code=NP09501 They are a couple of quid, but you need to drill a little hole in the bottom bracket, and then use a little self-tapping screw to hold it in place.

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Wanted: A few bits

Posted by Avatar for hanged_up @hanged_up

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