Lockring to torque wrench interface

My Formula lockring says to apply 40Nm of torque when tightening it. However, when I tighten it it never reaches a point where the resistance feels like I've reached 40Nm. It gets very tight, and then reaches a point where it doesn't get any tighter, and will always move a couple of mm more if I apply pressure. It feels like I might be stripping the threads, but this is never the case.
The lockring itself seems very flimsy (it's the stock Fuji track one) so I've ordered the Dura-Ace one from Hubjub, which will hopefully tighten properly.

My question though is, how do I tighten a lockring with my torque wrench?

I.e. what is the interface that sits between the lockring and torque wrench with attached socket? Yes I've looked through previous threads here, Google, and Park's entire catalogue and can't seem to see anything that fits the bill.

I'd imagine it would look something like this:

This is a cartridge BB tool though

Just extend your lock ring tool to 1m and place a 4 kg weight on the end.

get a DA, then tighten to fnck!

^ this

You need a lockring spanner not a torque wrench. No uses a torque wrench on a lockring. And most people overtighten lockrings anyway.

get a DA, then tighten to fnck!

How will an elected or appointed government official who represents the government in the prosecution of criminal offenses be able to tell the torque?

You need a lockring spanner not a torque wrench. No uses a torque wrench on a lockring. And most people overtighten lockrings anyway.

I need a lockring tool that attaches to a torque wrench. Why write a torque spec on a lockring if there is no way of measuring it accurately?

^because when the alloy Formula lockring strips it's thread or rounds off it's notches, they have a get out that says "did you tighten it to 40nm?" implying you either under or overtightened it when it reality it's just a shit lockring.

No other quality lockring has torque settings printed on it but the shittiest cheapest one available does.

they are made of cheese, and will snap at anything over the required torque.
when actually you will need a lot higher

^because when the alloy Formula lockring strips it's thread or rounds off it's notches, they have a get out that says "did you tighten it to 40nm?" implying you either under or overtightened it when it reality it's just a shit lockring.

No other quality lockring has torque settings printed on it but the shittiest cheapest one available does.

Yeah it does seem made out of plastic in terms of how sturdy it is, or how the notches are holding up. Hopefully I've had the Dura-Ace lockring through the post when I get home (actually its from Hubjub so I know it will there). I emailed Formula and I'll post if they have anything interesting to say but yeah, the explanation about the get out clause makes a lot of sense since there isn't actually a way to measure the torque...

There's no need of a torque wrench if some good common sense, and good parts are used.
Just thread a P.W. lockring on a good hub, then thread a cheap lockring and feel HOW different the thread will engage.
P.W., D.A. and so on, they're just perfection :)

Surely Sheldon has the answer http://www.sheldonbrown.com/tork-grip.html

get a DA, then tighten to fnck!

gotta say DA is the only lock ring i can fit and forget. Dont/won't trust any other (unless it's royce or campy)

Ive been rocking a Formula for two years on the only bike I ride. No problems.

I agree that people overtighten them and then use poor technique when removing too.

Are we talking about the lock ring with a left hand thread that just needs to be nipped up to the sprocket since if the sprocket tries to undo it will be trying to tighten the lock ring so the worst that will happen is you get a loose feeling at the back which if not addressed could work itself loose but you would need to be a total turd to let that happen?
If so start by tightening the sprocket properly. I find grinding up swains to be the best method of tightening this. When you get to the top just nip up the lock ring and you are ready for a quick pint in the flask before trying to ride back down the hill.