Charge Plug

Hi guys (and gals if there are any :),

I have the following question - what can I do to replace the wheel bolts on my Charge Plug to quick-release mechanism? The reason I ask is that I actually want to install anti-theft skewers and they can only be installed with quick-release. So - is it possible? If it is, how should I go about doing it, what part would I need to get?

Thank you very much,

--Vic

Probably easier to buy a Krypto Evo mini-D lock

£27.50 from Parker. You can print out the ad, and any Cycle Surgery (or possibly Evans, not sure) will price match
http://www.parker-international.co.uk/6774/Kryptonite-Evolution-Mini-Lock.html?referrer=froogle&utm_source=google&utm_medium=froogle&utm_campaign=pid6774

Thank you for the link. The thing is that I would prefer the security to be automatic, without my having to worry/remember to use the 2nd lock. And I also have installed new reel-lights which are bolted to the wheel, this would protect them from being taken (lock would not).

You're less likely to lose your bike if it's got two locks rather than one lock and locking skewers.

Jusayin'

Thank you for the link. The thing is that I would prefer the security to be automatic, without my having to worry/remember to use the 2nd lock. And I also have installed new reel-lights which are bolted to the wheel, this would protect them from being taken (lock would not).

How would pitlocks protect them when locking wheel to frame wouldn't?

The lights are attached to the hub, between it and the wheelbolt - ie anybody can just unscrew the wheel bolt and remove them. A secure skewer would prevent the light from being removed.

Of course the lock on the wheel is just as effective for the wheel.

Are you talking about front or rear wheel?

I ask because if you are riding fixed, you really don't want to put a QR on the rear - it's a tad dangerous.
If its the front then do what the others say,

For a rear you can get a pitlock for bolt on hubs, but its a bit expensive, more details here http://www.hubjub.co.uk/etc/pitlock.htm

For the record, I have a pitlock on the front and still use a mini evo.

Buy a hollow axle and swap it out with the existing solid axle.

That's the answer

Yes - but is that possible? I thought it depends on the type of axle currently installed, ie not all can be just swapped out.

I run a road QR hub on the front of my fixed machine for this exact reason, to run a pit lock. Means I can lock up the bike with my krypto mini-d via the back wheel inside the frame triangle. The rear wheel still runs track nuts. Less fuss and pretty secure IMO.

You can actually buy security nuts off a company in SE london, but you'd have to carry the tool around with you for when you get a flat.

Clefty - thanks, but their solution seems a little expensive.

Hoonz - do you know what company that is? I would imagine a simple nut with key should be reasonable.

Tiswas - so you think they are replaceable? What about bearings inside?

you really don't want to put a QR on the rear - it's a tad dangerous.

i'd have to disagree, unless you don't do up a QR correctly (i.e. tight enough) you will be fine

If your hubs are completely sealed units, then you're SOL and will need to buy new hubs.

i believe the plug does have OEM sealed bearing hubs. OP - most sealed bearing hubs have specific axles which have collars on the axle which rest against the bearing, QR axles do not have these.

Frankly Josh, I wouldn't take safety advice from you, but there you go

have fun with that QR.

#smileyface

i've never had a bike malfunction leading to injury, i can do that without mechanical help.

edit: do you really think the good folks at surly would be allowed by QBP to sell QR chain tugs if they were dangerous?

^ I too think a QR done up tight enough on the rear will be ok.

Pretty sure sheldon says the original reason was in the late 80s when couriers first invented track fixed gears QR were wingnuts and one flew off into the crowd and killed someone.

HOWEVER, having used pittlocks, I'm not that convinced that you can get the same pressure (?) with a pittlock as with a normal QR, and I think it would be a bit more fiddly to get the wheel in the position.

Personally, I'd just buy/upgrade to a new and improved front road wheel, use a pittlock and sack off the rear. The cost and effort of faffing about basically cancels out the cost and likely hood of someone stealing the rear light.

Just my 2p.

ahh i was trying to walk it back in the frame, ill try your way and hopefully get the right tension

Stuff something between the wheel and the frame. I use a rolled up t-shirt, works fine.

I know there's are many pages on this, but I'm not sure if they're outdated and perhaps don't pertain to these
http://www.wiggle.co.uk/p/cycle/7/Charge_Plug_2010/5360039090/
but what size is the XS please?

52.5cm TT, and 54.5cm ST.

Cheers Ed. Perfect.

just got mine today, i love it - though wish id got the grey one, im so fickle. im 6f2 and the large is perfect. Its way lighter than i thought it would be (read this thread last night), though i will need to put a pannier rack on it ( i know it will spoil the aesthetics) but practicality rules... any idea what rack i should buy?

Seeing the Charge doesn't have mount for rack (apart from the Grinder), a seatpost mounted rack may be your best bet.

(There's more than one type).

other option is a carradice saddlebag with the big man rack to keep it stable.

don't worry about appearance, as long it does exactly what you want it to do, that all you need.

cheers, think ill need to go for the seatpost one, need something sturdy enough to hold 3 siamese cats when its injection time at the vets

Check the weight limit of the rack to make sure thought.

I've just joined the boards after being a long time reader. I think that I'm going to go with a Plug Freestyler, but am split on whether a small or medium is most fitting for me. My height is 5'10"-11" and my inseam about 30". Any thoughts?