Head tubes for integrated headsets don't need facing, since the bearings never actually touch the end faces of the tube. The only time you'd need a facing tool on them is if you've gone too far with the chamfer cutting and made it too deep, then you'd need to take a bit off the faces to provide clearance.
Although the bearings are supposed to just drop in, a very light interference fit on the cylindrical part won't do any harm as long as the chamfered edge of the bearing cartridge sits squarely on the chamfered shoulder inside the head tube. Just make sure you press on the outer ring of the bearing when you push it in. Hand pressure should be enough, if it won't go in without a press the cylindrical bore needs reaming, but don't start carving lumps out of the chamfer unless you're sure that it's so fucked up that only a re-cut can save it. Some head tubes with tapered walls (the ones that look like a cooling tower) have very little spare material to cut into.
Head tubes for integrated headsets don't need facing, since the bearings never actually touch the end faces of the tube. The only time you'd need a facing tool on them is if you've gone too far with the chamfer cutting and made it too deep, then you'd need to take a bit off the faces to provide clearance.
Although the bearings are supposed to just drop in, a very light interference fit on the cylindrical part won't do any harm as long as the chamfered edge of the bearing cartridge sits squarely on the chamfered shoulder inside the head tube. Just make sure you press on the outer ring of the bearing when you push it in. Hand pressure should be enough, if it won't go in without a press the cylindrical bore needs reaming, but don't start carving lumps out of the chamfer unless you're sure that it's so fucked up that only a re-cut can save it. Some head tubes with tapered walls (the ones that look like a cooling tower) have very little spare material to cut into.