I'm trying to build up an old Dave Lloyd TT frame and have run into bother with the BB install. When I got the frame it came with an old style spindle & cups BB, but it was no good for my chainline. So I got a 103mm Token sealed jobbie that should be just the ticket, but I've hit a snag.
The non-drive side is perfect, but when putting in the drive side (with the actual BB attached, I can screw it in until there is maybe 3mm of threads left to go and then it just stops. At first it screwed in with a light amount of resistance, getting a bit heavier toward the end and then wham, it's like hitting a wall.
I've taken it out and had a look in the shell and all I can think is that maybe the tubes of the chainstays come through the BB shell/lugs and sit a little proud of the inside of the shell and the new BB goes a little deeper than the old cups.
Does this sound right and reasonable? It would be nice to hear that it's a common occurrence before I take a Dremel and Grinder to the frame to try and get it to fit...
I'm trying to build up an old Dave Lloyd TT frame and have run into bother with the BB install. When I got the frame it came with an old style spindle & cups BB, but it was no good for my chainline. So I got a 103mm Token sealed jobbie that should be just the ticket, but I've hit a snag.
The non-drive side is perfect, but when putting in the drive side (with the actual BB attached, I can screw it in until there is maybe 3mm of threads left to go and then it just stops. At first it screwed in with a light amount of resistance, getting a bit heavier toward the end and then wham, it's like hitting a wall.
I've taken it out and had a look in the shell and all I can think is that maybe the tubes of the chainstays come through the BB shell/lugs and sit a little proud of the inside of the shell and the new BB goes a little deeper than the old cups.
Does this sound right and reasonable? It would be nice to hear that it's a common occurrence before I take a Dremel and Grinder to the frame to try and get it to fit...