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  • in montmartre, refuge des fondues is quite quirky, can be touristy these days now. You can write on the walls, drink wine out of a baby bottle, and eat lots of fondue.

    Place des Tertres is where the painters hang out, v v touristy now. The view from the steps early in the morning is well worth it, before it gets busy. If you're looking for bars, try rue de la roquette, just off place de la bastille, v lively.

    depends what you want, really...touristy or 'off the beaten track'? I highly recommend www.bikeabouttours.com, if you can get a space -- they're number 1 on things to do on tripadvisor, and are booked up weeks in advance. Little dahon folders, and a chance to see things you wouldn't normally see in paris. Declaration of interest -- a close friend runs the show, and i used to guide for him.

    as for cigars, http://www.cigarsmokers.com/nevermerely/regional/paris1.html
    cos they're state-controlled, prices don't vary very much. Exchange rate swings have a bigger impact.

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