Tugs on a conversion

hippy
Put strong rider on bike and it's nice for them to know that if/when the axle does move forward, it will move only a minimal distance as it has been stopped by the tug.

This seems like a good idea - a safety net. Could some kind soul oblige with a photo of chain tugs on a conversion, please?

Google images gave me this:

if they are 3mm thick, i suppose having one each side (inside dropout) could be ideal for conversion with 126mm spacing.

yeah, that's a bmx type tug put on the inside.

you can sometimes cut off the locating lug and use them like that or on the outside

Thanks. I'd actually spotted that one on Google, only it didn't quite register at the time that this was something else that would affect chainline. Aaaaargh! Maybe I'll just resolve to check my axle nuts every few days.

if you have one on each side, or place them on the outside, the chainline should be fine.

does having quick release (closed) make it more or less necessary to use tugs?

mercianary if you have one on each side, or place them on the outside, the chainline should be fine.

I've already got spacers. And I've got more on one side than the other. 'T'would be nightmarish, me thinks.

tynan [quote]hippy So, it's less likely to throw the chain or lock the wheel to the chainstay (both potentially crashing you into hospital) when running a chain tug.

Because the chain tension is kept at the right level ?[/quote]

Lets say you're not running tugs..
A hard acceleration can drag the wheel forward. Far enough forward and the wheel hits the chainstay and you stop. Generally not so bad but you might do an ungracious dismount onto pavement.
If you accelerate hard and the wheel moves forward but not enough for it to hit the chainstay, then you are now running with less than optimal chain tension, which obviously puts you more at risk of unshipping your chain = possible pain.

I run tugs when I note a tendency for my chain to slacken off more than I'm comfortable with, ie. it gets kinda old if every third time you jump hard from the lights your chain is too slack.
Running two tugs gives you the added benefit of making it very simple to get nice tension and a centered wheel. Only bad thing about tugs is when you flat, you have more shit to take off.
I've got tugs on the Raleigh, none on the Soma, and one ready but not yet fitted to the Twatster.

ive never run tugs, not even on my bmx which get all sorts of physical abuse towards the rear wheel. they are good at fine tuning your wheel placement and making sure its centered. I guess i just get my trusty 15mm and crank down on the nuts. lots easier/quicker without tugs for punctures!! but different frames/paintjobs behave differently with the whole nut to dropout interface so trythem if your getting slip or when/if they slip.....

tomasito does having quick release (closed) make it more or less necessary to use tugs?

More !

I've found that my hub slips more on my chrome campag road dropouts than it used to on my hammerite-yellow dropouts. But maybe thats because I don't want to tighten it too hard and damage the shiny finish :>

hippy [quote]tynan [quote]hippy So, it's less likely to throw the chain or lock the wheel to the chainstay (both potentially crashing you into hospital) when running a chain tug.

Because the chain tension is kept at the right level ?[/quote]

Lets say you're not running tugs..
A hard acceleration can drag the wheel forward. Far enough forward and the wheel hits the chainstay and you stop. Generally not so bad but you might do an ungracious dismount onto pavement.
If you accelerate hard and the wheel moves forward but not enough for it to hit the chainstay, then you are now running with less than optimal chain tension, which obviously puts you more at risk of unshipping your chain = possible pain.

I run tugs when I note a tendency for my chain to slacken off more than I'm comfortable with, ie. it gets kinda old if every third time you jump hard from the lights your chain is too slack.
Running two tugs gives you the added benefit of making it very simple to get nice tension and a centered wheel. Only bad thing about tugs is when you flat, you have more shit to take off.
I've got tugs on the Raleigh, none on the Soma, and one ready but not yet fitted to the Twatster.[/quote]

Cheers for that, understood.

I think it is about time that someone invented a quick release chain tug.

Welding will probably mess up the heat-treated steel or alu frame materials, so rather than slipping axle, you'll have bent/broken dropout or stay.
Yes, I realise you were joking. :)

hay i know im like 3 years l8 but any1 got an opinion on http://www.evanscycles.com/products/genetic/track-chain-tensioners-ec021739

would thay suit forward facing dropouts?

no

It's not a definite no though is it...that tug is the same as the on-one and the one in the pic from google above. It's not designed for that use, but it isn't it dependent on the shape of your drop out and whether there are suitable spots for the tug bolts to sit on?

See no reason why it should definitely not work, but it does depend what the other side is like.

someone on here have made them for forwards facing dropouts, some work on the search should bring em up

hay i know im like 3 years l8 but any1 got an opinion on http://www.evanscycles.com/products/genetic/track-chain-tensioners-ec021739

would thay suit forward facing dropouts?

Just converted a 20yr old MTB with foward facing dropouts to single speed after the rear derailer final gave up the ghost. After doing some searching I decided to try these. After filing the lug of the back, which took about 5 min, they work like a charm. Just like the pic above except mine are on the outside of the frame.