This is my polo bike. It's not perfect but I like it a lot. Everything is polo specific.
Nice long dropouts for the ride back West (would be nice if they were angled like the Rivendell Quickbeam so that the brake alignment stayed correct.
Big clearances - 700 x 42c tyres on there right now. Room for bigger, even with the wheel slammed. The back end could be around 5 to 10mm shorter I think. Uses a 73mm bb shell rather than crimping or bending the chainstays.
Obviously a curved seat-tube so you can really pull the back in and get your weight over the rear wheel. Seat tube extends to support the seat post.
Effective top-tube is 59cm, no toe overlap stuff even with my clumpy feet. It doesn't barspin - it's a polo bike. Some people have liked the trail, some people haven't. I like it. It's similar to the Bruiser I believe (74 degree head angle, 35mm rake).
No gussets. Gussets help when the bike experiences force moving upwards through the frame. For example, when jumping stairs you want something that helps stops the headtube moving away from the top and down tubes. In polo the force moves along the frame horizontally (for example when you hit a wall). The forks are designed as a 'crumple zone' for the frame so that when that high speed crash happens, they take the impact rather than the frame. If the frame was gusseted and the fork was one of these unbreakable unicrown affairs, this would just move the impact further along the tube (potentially past the butting) and the gusset would act like a lever, making it more likely the tube would crumple. The downtube is also slightly oversize to help absorb impact.
This is my polo bike. It's not perfect but I like it a lot. Everything is polo specific.
Nice long dropouts for the ride back West (would be nice if they were angled like the Rivendell Quickbeam so that the brake alignment stayed correct.
Big clearances - 700 x 42c tyres on there right now. Room for bigger, even with the wheel slammed. The back end could be around 5 to 10mm shorter I think. Uses a 73mm bb shell rather than crimping or bending the chainstays.
Obviously a curved seat-tube so you can really pull the back in and get your weight over the rear wheel. Seat tube extends to support the seat post.
Effective top-tube is 59cm, no toe overlap stuff even with my clumpy feet. It doesn't barspin - it's a polo bike. Some people have liked the trail, some people haven't. I like it. It's similar to the Bruiser I believe (74 degree head angle, 35mm rake).
No gussets. Gussets help when the bike experiences force moving upwards through the frame. For example, when jumping stairs you want something that helps stops the headtube moving away from the top and down tubes. In polo the force moves along the frame horizontally (for example when you hit a wall). The forks are designed as a 'crumple zone' for the frame so that when that high speed crash happens, they take the impact rather than the frame. If the frame was gusseted and the fork was one of these unbreakable unicrown affairs, this would just move the impact further along the tube (potentially past the butting) and the gusset would act like a lever, making it more likely the tube would crumple. The downtube is also slightly oversize to help absorb impact.
Forgot to add: it's a Dave Yates. It's green.