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• #2
1 1/8" integrated threadless
.
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• #3
yes, you'd think that.. but so many forums are saying its not a normal 1 1/8" headset apparently.
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• #4
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=23828
You'll have to knock out the existing cups first though which is a bugger of a job - a long spanner, a big hammer , a bike stand and an unreasonable amount of force required..
Don't throw away the old headset as you need a spacer and a seal (pics below) to compress it adequately.
Here's the thread where it was discussed. PM me if you need any more info. http://www.londonfgss.com/thread16117.html
Col.
3 Attachments
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• #5
ah, see i thought there was something weird about it.
thanks mate.
i think i'll take it to the LBS for them to do it, i have no experience with integrated headsets at all.
is the is2 the only integrated headset that'll fit? any other options?
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• #6
I'm sure there's others but Cane Creek are a good brand and it was the first I came across.
The LBS should sort you out.
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• #7
also if i was to have the frame powdercoated would i need to remove the existing cups?
I was planning on a paintjob in 6months, but I may as well do it at the same
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• #8
no the cups are inside the head tube.
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• #9
yeah i got that, but the fact that.. the frame is heated up before powdercoating so the powder sticks. Wouldnt that be a bad thing for the headset cups?
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• #10
i wouldn't have thought so. the cups are metal. can't imagine the differental expansion and contraction, if any, would unseat or misalign.
best ask though.
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• #11
If the cups are removable, then remove them before you get the frame powder-coated.
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• #12
You'll need to cover the bearing surfaces etc if you leave it in. I'd take them out just to be on the safe side.
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• #13
i am having the same problem, the above though does give an accurate description though, as i look into the headtube what is the black thing with tiny drilled holes that seems to be glued (!) below the headset at the top, and above at the bottom (of the headtube). It doesn't seem like cups as cups come all the way to the edge of the headtube. Plus i am confused about the third poster's recommendation of a 1" not 1 1/8" headset as replacement.
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• #14
This is one of the problems that turns people into card-carrying, beard-stroking retro-bores.
I have changed countless 'headrace' bearings on motorcycles, and, since, a fair number of bicycle 'headsets'. I had the same problem on the same model.
I was tooled up, had breakfast and all, but I didn't dare carry on smacking the races (as per Spuds suggestion) out of the frame on my short-lived Langster. Not sure where you are but your LBS is worth supporting on this one. Putney Cycles sorted mine out.
The Appliance Of Science doesn't always work. Integrated headsets, pfft.
Sorry not to be more helpful.
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• #15
Integrated headsets, pfft.
Integrated headsets are fine.
But, the Langster doesn't have one.
Integral/hidden/internal is what the Langster has and they are bloody useless.
They have no benefit over a standard aheadset and just confuse people.Be prepared for your LBS to not be too clued up. I worked in an LBS with 2 cytech trained members of staff above me and neither of them knew the difference between integral/hidden and integrated.
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• #16
Integrated headsets are fine.
But, the Langster doesn't have one.
Integral/hidden/internal is what the Langster has and they are bloody useless.Thank you. That ^^ is a helpful reply. I'll get googling.
starts looking at new bikes
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• #17
My Langster has recently been fitted with a new FSA IS-2 headset. Works fine.
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• #18
Integrated = sealed cartridge bearing unit fits directly into the frame.
Integral/hidden/internal = open or sealed bearings fit into a cup which is pressed into the frame and sits inside the headtube.There's also semi integrated, hiddenset (not the same as a hidden headset) intelaset and microtech.
It's very difficult to find accurate and understandable representations of each on the internet because a lot of carbon frames that use integrated headsets have a metal insert in the headtube that the bearing sit's in, in a cutaway or drawing of the headtube this can look like a cup but it is not, it's a non removeable part of the frame.
Edit: This page of Park's site has a pretty good list and good illustrations http://www.parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=68 , Sheldon would be the normal goto reference but in this case I think a lot of the types of headset in question have come about since his death/the last time the site was updated.
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• #19
My Langster has recently been fitted with a new FSA IS-2 headset. Works fine.
Really?
As far as i knew and despite what their web specs might have you believe I thought Specialized didn't use integrated headsets.
I say despite the web specs because for bikes like the Allez the spec uses the term 'integrated' but having worked on several I can assure you the headset is integral not integrated. -
• #20
MV, you deserve big rep for not talking bollocks. I've learnt stuff. Stuff I hope to forget, but stuff I wanted to know.
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• #21
For cartridge bearing headsets:
Yank it out, measure the internal and external diameters, squint at the upper and lower angles, look for appropriate bearings in stock of 9 different types of cartridges, realise you don't have THAT one, scream, throw bearing against wall etc etc
Something quite helpful (more for the pros....) is the FSA profiled steel tool which helps you with angles etc- sometimes the seal colour tells you which bearing you have if the markings are rusted off etc
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• #22
Had no time to read all the post, so maybe this has already been said.
However, the Langster (as some other Specy's) uses a "fake" integrated h/set.
Basically, they press some cups inside the frame, and run caged bearings.
The replacement, is to remove the cups from the frame (is worth to ream sometimes), and throw in cartridge bearings, as that head tube is meant to house them. If I remember correctly, they're 41.0 x 45°Hope this helps ;)
+A+
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• #23
I have been reading this (and posting incomprehensible scrawls) and have finally done a job on my langsetr headset. Getting the cups out was very difficult- had to ram various things into the splays of the headset tool to get purchase. I also, before i had read the post, been under the mistaken impression bearings were integrated and tried to 'pop' what i though was a cartridge out by levering over the top/under neath the fluted bit of the head tube wihich has damaged it. I was lucky to find a set of cartridge bearings in my tool box that then sat in the frame (no need for cups, cartridges just snug in on the 'shelf' in the headtube) and put the split insert and the top bit (see spud's first post) and then the spacers and it is a bit crunchy if you over do the preload (i think the bearings i found weren't perfect to begin with) but should work OK. Thanks for this post, really helped! cheers
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• #24
Bumping this to see if anyone has learnt more in the almost two years since this thread was last updated?
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• #25
Havent read the whole thread but ill just let you know what i do about them... to get hold of a new headset for a langster just get hold of your local specialized dealer and get them to phone specialized and order one, they are super cheap, specialized charge the shops about £10 so probably £20 for you. They fit in a kinda strange way, they have two press-fit metal bands that sit in the headtube that the seals and bearings sit on, the pressfit bits are a pain to get in and out but most shops will have the parktool headset expandy thing that can get them in and out, and then figuring out the spacers ect is pretty simple.
hi guys,
I have a 2007 langster frame + fork, which has seen a few thousand miles now. Really like it.
The other night i took out the fork to have a look at the headset when giving it a clean.. it has definately seen better days.
Now i was wondering about upgrading the headset, but I have no idea what will fit?
The specialized website says its a "Specialized Mindset, 1 1/8" integrated threadless, sealed bearings, alloy 20mm cone w/ one 10mm and two 5mm alloy spacers", but mine is a cane-creek?
After googling, there really isnt much info on what will work and what wont..
anyone got any ideas?