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• #52
I cant guess how many bottom brackets ive removed in the past for bike shops in the three counties, hundreds, and i make good money at it. There is no need to use caustic or penetrating oil and it only takes about half an hour if it is brutally seized. All one needs to have is the right tools. The removal tools that one buys from cycle shops are only any good for moderatly seized brackets and they seem to be designed to strip all of the teeth out when any overload is exerted on them. One problem with bottom bracket design is that the teeth are never deep enough. After i remove an old bb i also clean out the threads with a thread tap(left and right). Anyone out there want to challenge me? ime up for it.
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• #53
Good for you. What tools are these then? Either way, I spent £2.35 on caustic soda and sat on my arse all day. I didn't need to re-thread the bb and the frames now back on the road. Challenge over.
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• #54
that reply is full of win.
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• #55
What are the Three Counties? Smugshire, Knowitallshire and Aintisoflippinaceshire?
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• #56
Foreign SMUGgler: I've never had a seized BB because I install them properly in the first place. :)
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• #57
2.35 on caustic and getting fat on your ass eating biscuits and then having to repaint the bottom part of the frame to complete a half baked job, surely bicycle restoration would require a mechanical approach as you initially tried to attempt but failed. I am unable to give my customers this kind of service as they would lynch me for wrecking there frame. I employ the caustic treatment for unseizing parts on tractors and other farm machinery parts, its also good for stripping paint off doors. Rethreading is not part of the process but cleaning it with a thread tap is. The three counties are, nocausticshire, nopaintshire and imethebolloxshire. BB brackets should be checked for seizing on the threads every year and it is agood idea to keep this area clean, as afterall it is in the direct line of road filth. They should also be fitted with copperslip on the thread
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• #58
But... It didnt damage his paint at all? Or wreck his frame because it only reacted with the shitty alloy Miche BB cups... Looks like a residue left from being dipped in the after pic. Which just wipes off. So maybe adding removing alloy BB cups from a steel frame to that list would be a good idea
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• #59
What frame is it - was it worth 2 months of time?!
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• #60
Sorry all, i didnt realise they were ali bbs as i only seem to get rust ridden steel stuff in my workshop, ill put my hands up. Still, i would remove them in the same way as steel ones.
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• #61
i'd be interested in what tools you're using then, why don't you show us?
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• #62
Dunno if has already being said...
-spray 3-in-one or better PlusGas and leave overnight
-put the bb remover (is the same as Campy cassette lockring, but with a bigger hole) and keep it pressed with a crank bolt and one or two big washers, tight firm
-put the extractor in a vice, and turn: towards the front wheel in both sides, if is BSA thread ;)If fails, it's easy anyway: Miche bb's need just one side to go (either L or R) and the BB core slides off. If the notches for the extractor get shagged, you can always file down two or four notches and use a Freewheel extractor, in the was as above.
Or, as the last remedy, saw the cups in two points (clearly, the bb core has to be out!) and get it off with big pliers -
• #63
this forums gone to shit!
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• #64
this forums gone to shit!
???
I like this picture. It looks like your frame is dissolving into a baking tray of primordial ooze.