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• #2
I'm riding with one at the moment. It's not perfect, a few sounds from the chain rubbing on the inner ring. Plus they're 1/16 sprockets and I'm using a 1/8 chain so not as solid as it could be. But that said, it feels fine, my chain has never come off and there is no noticeable wear on my chain ring so it's probably fine. Those issue are most likely more in my head than actual problems.
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• #3
Do you think it is rubbing because you are using a 1/8th chain. It is designed for use with a 3/32 isn't it? The thinner chain would probably avoid any rubbing. Does it work out that the chainline is correct with the inner/larger sprocket, and a few mm off on the outer or is a standard spocket offset in line with the middle of the dingle... in which case each sprocket is a couple of mm out of alignment in each direction?
Is it better running on the larger or smaller sprocket?
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• #4
Isn't the idea to run one with a double chainset and so that the number of teeth in each "plane" add up?
ie 20 / 17 dingle with 42 / 45 chainrings so that you have a straight chainline on each sprocket and the chain length is the same for both combinations
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• #5
That is probably the best way to maintain chainline, but they can be run with a solo front ring, i just don't know how well?
Thanks for your PM too Tim
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• #6
Isn't the idea to run one with a double chainset and so that the number of teeth in each "plane" add up?
I always thought it was for a single front ring? If you have two then you might as well get a derailleur.
Do you think it is rubbing because you are using a 1/8th chain. It is designed for use with a 3/32 isn't it? The thinner chain would probably avoid any rubbing. Does it work out that the chainline is correct with the inner/larger sprocket, and a few mm off on the outer or is a standard spocket offset in line with the middle of the dingle... in which case each sprocket is a couple of mm out of alignment in each direction?
Is it better running on the larger or smaller sprocket?
The chainline is better on the inner ring, I think with thinner chain on the inner ring it would be totally fine. I'm getting into territory I know nothing about here, but I think chains designed for geared bikes have flex in them, so the chainline doesn't matter as much as with a track chain. Maybe worth looking into.
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• #7
Surley's blurb states: "With a 17/19t Dingle on the back, pick two chainrings that are 2 teeth apart, like a 44t and a 42t. When you change from the outer (44:17t) gear combo to the inner (42:19t), you’ll have a much better off-road gear and your wheel position will not change. This maintains effective chainstay length so you won’t have to worry about having too much or too little chain length to accommodate the gear change."
This system allows you to change, relatively quickly, between two significantly different gears whilst maintaining an efficient chainline and, most critically, still riding fixed. That's not a call for a derailleur.
How regularly do you change your gearing whilst on a ride?
If you don't want to run a double chainset, I would have thought that a flip-flop with the required alternative sprocket on would be a better (and cheaper) option. The Dingle makes gear changing a little quicker than flipping your wheel round, but at the expense of chainline efficiency and the preferred 1/8" chain.
I am considering purchasing a Dingle to run with a double chainset in order to ride the Fred Whitton next May, but only because this ride comprises such extremes of gradient and, because I regularly ride big hills, I use two (yes TWO) brakes. The double chainset/Dingle combo means I won't have to adjust my rear brake each time I swap gear and the gear change itself will be a bit quicker.
Then again, if a hill's too steep to get up in my usual gear, it might be quicker to get off and run!
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• #8
I was thinking of it more for riding round town with 48:20 and 48:17 for a harder gearing out of town. Probably mainly sit on the 20. I run a 3/32 chain anyway, and my hubs a single sided and i don't wanta change them.
Ideally a 20/17(16) one if anyone is looking to get rid, or, if there is any, general advice against them?
They seem expensive for what they are, and what will potentially compromise my chainline in one or both gears, so any advice would be appreciated.
Thanks
Dave