Current Projects chat and miscellany

and the forces will not be that great only 160mm

You seem to be labouring under a misapprehension. Larger rotors actually decrease the calliper mounting bolt shear load (and indeed the wheel ejection force, for traditionally positioned callipers) for a given amount of deceleration.

gotta love physics...

so what sort of bike is it going to be? singlespeed/fixed? drops / risers? looks like it's gonna be interesting.

fixed, and the bars are not risers or drops or bull horns.

usage is a very short commute and to the pub and back.

i need to get the wheels built and then i can try out bars ( of the cycle type) before committing. Dont forget that to change the bars/stem/headset will require a brake bleed! so I need to get it right before bleeding the brake so there maybe a few trips without the brake working.

and the funny thing the fork that the wheel came out of was on a Tandem

That's unsurprising, as solo bikes tend to endo before the brake torque reaches a high enough value to eject a properly installed wheel, but tandems, with their centre of gravity further back, can be braked harder.

You seem to be labouring under a misapprehension. Larger rotors actually decrease the calliper mounting bolt shear load (and indeed the wheel ejection force, for traditionally positioned callipers) for a given amount of deceleration.

correct.
a bigger lever reduces the load. but it also increases the load.

it all depends on where you are standing. and the mounting holes stay in the same place.

I started cleaning up my dad's old bike at the weekend and it's got a few more rust patches than I expected, which is annoying. my main concern is that the top tube and down tube seem to have a slight angle change just before the lug and a tiny bulge on the underside of the tubes again right by the lug. I've attached a few pics of this.

Is this something that needs some serious attention? If so can someone please recommend somewhere to take it.

I've cleaned up the front wheel relatively easily, the rear hub will need a bit more attention but will hopefully be alright. the spokes on both wheel are not the tightest, but I'll worry about that a bit later. the frame is my main concern.

thanks in advance for your input.

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try to remove the paint and see whats under. its prolly just rotten paint and surface of the frame...hopefully. good luck

That frame has been crashed head on at some point in its life. take the paint off the affected area and look for cracks. If you don't find any ( I don't think you will on such a tonka looking frame), then it should be roadworthy. Hope this helps.

Looks like it crashed once, try holding something straight (like a book) against the tubes
to see if they are not bend. Aswell remove some paint to see what's underneath indeed.

they are definately bent, i can see the ripples on the underside of the tube, i wouldnot ride that anymore

^ like above its mos def had a head on crash.

IMO the main thing is not to spend £s on it... unless you wanted to go the whole hog and get it repaired for sentimental reasons.

Just check for cracks, give it a bit of a clean and ride as a beater around town, checking from time to time. Putting any more than the minimum amount of time and money is a waste. Sorry about that, bc it looks like it was once a nice frame.

Current setup. Frame is to small though :(

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was it a cyclocross frame then?

No it was just a standard mountain bike one as far as I know. I just wanted a frame with the mounts for cantilever brakes really

Current setup. Frame is to small though :(

What size of the frame is that?

^^^^^^^^^ Nuknow you weapon, that Carlton of yours is absolutley Wunderbar. Bonk's stripped one too.

^^^^^ about that Claud on the previous page, I notice the ends are ever so slightly downward sloping I think, and have noticed that same detail on a Road/path holdsworth used by some members of this place... anyone know why? Mudguard? Tension? Toleration for tyre clearances?

No it was just a standard mountain bike one as far as I know. I just wanted a frame with the mounts for cantilever brakes really

so it has 26" wheels? or did you get canti's to work with 700c?

what size of the frame is that?

57 :/

I notice the ends are ever so slightly downward sloping I think, and have noticed that same detail on a Road/path holdsworth used by some members of this place... anyone know why?

It's so that you don't have to move the brake blocks in their slots when you change gear. The dropout slot is ideally at right angles to a line from the brake block centre to the axle.

well built the wheels today

just need to sort out the bars.

Tape or grips?

and a bit more friction on the rear axle bolts.

then look to connecting and bleeding the brake.

Tape, I find it easier to wrap it at the length I wanted rather having having to make do with a short grip.

Just realise I have enough part to make a 'porteur' bicycle;

Just need to find a Raleigh Royal frameset so I can start putting it together.

my lastest, just finished

nice bike, great photo.

Phil nice photo (and bike!)

Finished mine off today, im not breaking a chain again for a while - pain in the arsehole, and its red! Not sure I like it.