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@Courant
Handbuilts vs factory. Factory wheels can be good in certain situations (aero, racey kind of wheels) but generally handbuilts all the way, you'll always find yourself riding a decent set of handbuilts in a variety of situations for a variety of reasons. The other point with handbuilts vs bling low-spoke-count factory wheels is that although handbuilts may come in broadly the same weight or slightly heavier for the money, their rotational mass tends to be very good. E.g. they have light rims (far away from the hub, where it matters cos it's spining) compensated for by more spokes. Rather than less spokes, compensated for by a heavy rim.
Groupsets. P-X and selling the frame is a route to a cheap groupset. Also secondhand bikes if you know exactly what you're doing, and everything is in excellent condition. Particular pains are stuck bottom brackets, cranks that strip threads, front mech band-vs-braze, brake short-vs-long drop...
I mix-and-match groupsets in a big way (including shockhorror shimano & campag on the same bike!). It's the way to go IMO, because you can get some stuff cheap (e.g. ebay NOS), and other stuff that performs better. E.g. cranks, some great deals on various brands of cranks; front mechs, no point splashing cash here; brakes are a good upgrade... Mostly things play together extremely well. Free yourself from the it-must-be-all-the-same-groupset bind, free your mind!
@edscoble You don't even need to change the rings, I have an 8sp chorus crank that plays just fine with 10sp chains. Theoretically they're x mm closer to help shifting but it really doesn't affect it that much.