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• #31852
can anyone point me towards the raleigh track frame that was recently refurbished
guy bought an oldish frame and forks from a thread here and then had it stripped and repainted in the red black and yellow 1980's raleigh colours
stunning job just can't find it
anyone ? -
• #31853
If I was to remove any decals I'd just take the ones of the seat tube and leave the downtube.
Exatly what I was thinking.
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• #31854
Where's the sodding raleigh Nuknow? I just checked pages 617-622...
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• #31855
hippy merged it
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• #31856
merged it into this thread?
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• #31857
can anyone point me towards the raleigh track frame that was recently refurbished
guy bought an oldish frame and forks from a thread here and then had it stripped and repainted in the red black and yellow 1980's raleigh colours
stunning job just can't find it
anyone ?Where's the sodding raleigh Nuknow? I just checked pages 617-622...
I can't find shit.... What am I missing?
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• #31858
i have just been back through all 639 pages
got me a lob on from all that pron but still couldn't find itwhere that ffffffffffuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuu image when you need it
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• #31859
I say
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• #31860
hippy is hiding it under his fat arse
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• #31861
Ok, nothing to see here... please carry on.
Dicki has had a bit too many cappuccinos today. -
• #31862
its not a lever... it's a dummy hood. There's a little hook thing (max unkindly called a 'flid lever') which I think just helps hold your grip when you get forward out of the saddle. It doesn't move/pivot. However something inside it rattled subtly like a mutherfucka till I sprayed shit loads of spraymount in there.
Just found these, which look like an alternative to yours, if that makes any sense.
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• #31863
and that's a choad lever.
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• #31864
and that's a choad lever.
I had to look for that, option number 3: - "1. A short, fat cock. Must be wider than it is long."
Spot on ; )
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• #31865
ahh the internet, the ultimate educational tool
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• #31866
it won't. i've tried the curing an allen key with epoxy on a rounded out bolt. very frustrating.
Needless to say, it didn't work. After setting for 4.5 hours the allen keys just came out like they were stuck in with blu-tac.
For sale: Time Aliums with cleats... -
• #31867
You need to get the hole and the key really clean before gluing. Steam clean then solvent degrease. But, in the case of SPD scews, there's enough room to get a Dremel cutting wheel in there to make a screw driver slot.
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• #31868
Yeah, it was all clean, strangely it was the brand new allen keys that didn't bind rather than the cleats. The glue was quite rubbery but the packaging says "sets in minutes, cures in 4 hours".
Best find a Dremel to use I guess! Off to mechanics forum...
Cheers mdcc -
• #31869
strangely it was the brand new allen keys that didn't bind
Not strange if you didn't degrease them - tools always come with a sheen of oil on them when new.
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• #31870
is it something to do with how the bars are wrapped?
J - Let me sort your bar tape out. The OCD in me wants to get at it.
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• #31871
going off to put grease on his cleat
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• #31872
Just found these, ----choad lever
Old weinmann(sp? can't be arsed to check) levers make good dummies as well, easy as pie to pop out the lever. Without the cable coming out the top and no rubber they do feel a little less secure than a proper lever. Does me just fine on the Mason though, can also be seen on plenty of bikes in the 'nice old pics of bikes' thread.
Ben - the Yates is lovely, couldn't get over how well thought out and civilised it looked on the way to southend. Old man bikes ftw.
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• #31873
Bob Griffin 57cm.
Just waiting on my wheels and I'll be away....
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• #31874
Whatever happen to the whole bike? what wrong with the original part in the first place?
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• #31875
He wanted a fixie we struck a deal, he has a project and I have the satisfaction of the Grif going to a good home. Look forward to it being built.
^ kidding, i know what it is