-
• #677
Vaz, Colourtech, Argos to name a few.
-
• #678
Picked up my frame from Armourtex today - am very happy with the result!
This is traffic white RAL9016 with metallic lacquer.
Currently planning how to place the Condor decals...My friend's Langster steel, on the other hand, didn't go so well because Armourtex somehow got the impression he wanted the whole of the seat and chain stays chromed, whereas he only wanted the existing chrome to be masked off and preserved, and the original red replaced with the new metallic red.
-
• #679
nice!
-
• #680
why is the seat bolt the wrong way round?
-
• #681
Not sure, maybe Condor were trying something out?
-
• #682
and the track end look very strange, prototype model?
-
• #683
Don't think so, it's a 2009 Potenza production model
like this;
-
• #684
Ah mistook it for the Pista, whoop!
-
• #685
why is the seat bolt the wrong way round?
Its quite common on mountain bike frames to have the bolt facing forward supposidly to reduce the amount of crap going down the slot which would also be facing forward from rear wheel spray. I recall my 93 Kona Lavadome having it this way.
-
• #686
The GT Pulse use to have the seat clamp also faced forward.
-
• #687
Has anyone tried making their own decals?
And has anyone tried stencilling a second layer of powder coat onto an underlying layer?
-
• #688
the only problem with adding a stencil to the powder coating process...is the heat.
I was talking to steve last friday, and basically ...no.
You bake at about 250-400 centigrade...so even though you have put the powder on, I think you still have trouble with it moving about. it gets hot it may 'bleed'...I have to go in and speak to steve soon, though I think the only way to stencill would to maybe cut it out of steel? ie laser cut really thin spring steel or something similar. if you have access to a laser cutter at college maybe it's an option. ...or ..maybe if the frame is charged you get a 'pattern' to keep it's outline enough that when you rebake it wouldn't move, as it is...well, I think it would be too difficult, they have trouble doing a fade that is subtle..the transfer of colour if too obvious, there isn't enough blend for it not to look forced.
He has got some fucking amazing colours at the minute though...amazing candies and deep deep colours with amazing glitters, they finish really flat as well so are not as bulbous (due to the pellets/powder being more fine/better quality...they do come in moere expensive but when you see the finish you can really really tell...
If you want to go the paint route there are some really good paints coming through at the minute (they are hard too, some of the paints in the last few years ahve been really weak, and unless you are painting in a 'real place' ie refnishers with water born kit and the like, normal paints for 'normal' people have been wank. there are some new ones from house of kolor, the depth and sparkle/glitter are bonkers, there is a really good paint shop in bethnal green that will mix and match, and do customs, flake, whatver you 'd like.
ps..Ebenzo...I can do you decals and a clear coat if thats helpful.
-
• #689
...though I think the only way to stencill would to maybe cut it out of steel? ie laser cut really thin spring steel or something similar. if you have access to a laser cutter at college maybe it's an option. ...
Armourtex has tape that can go in the oven, i.e. you can powdercoat your frame in 2 colors. They use that tape to mask the frames, I'm not sure what the tape is made of though... could be easy by googling it.
-
• #690
the only problem with adding a stencil to the powder coating process...is the heat.
I was talking to steve last friday, and basically ...no.
You bake at about 250-400 centigrade...so even though you have put the powder on, I think you still have trouble with it moving about. it gets hot it may 'bleed'...I have to go in and speak to steve soon, though I think the only way to stencill would to maybe cut it out of steel? ie laser cut really thin spring steel or something similar. if you have access to a laser cutter at college maybe it's an option. ...or ..maybe if the frame is charged you get a 'pattern' to keep it's outline enough that when you rebake it wouldn't move, as it is...well, I think it would be too difficult, they have trouble doing a fade that is subtle..the transfer of colour if too obvious, there isn't enough blend for it not to look forced.
He has got some fucking amazing colours at the minute though...amazing candies and deep deep colours with amazing glitters, they finish really flat as well so are not as bulbous (due to the pellets/powder being more fine/better quality...they do come in moere expensive but when you see the finish you can really really tell...
If you want to go the paint route there are some really good paints coming through at the minute (they are hard too, some of the paints in the last few years ahve been really weak, and unless you are painting in a 'real place' ie refnishers with water born kit and the like, normal paints for 'normal' people have been wank. there are some new ones from house of kolor, the depth and sparkle/glitter are bonkers, there is a really good paint shop in bethnal green that will mix and match, and do customs, flake, whatver you 'd like.
ps..Ebenzo...I can do you decals and a clear coat if thats helpful.
@Wingedangel. Hi, I'm brand new to the thread so apologies for the hijack. I am looking to get a frame powder coated at Armourtex and would like to get a matt finish, then apply decals, then clearcoat. You mentioned that you could apply decals and clearcoat for Ebenzo. Is this offer open to others? The decals are simple white lettering on the downtube and the seat tube. I have the artwork. It would be great if your interested? Thanks
-
• #691
ps..Ebenzo...I can do you decals and a clear coat if thats helpful.
PM'd!
-
• #692
hey paddy, thats possible, I could get a matt clearcoat to go over the decals.
-
• #693
Armourtex has tape that can go in the oven, i.e. you can powdercoat your frame in 2 colors. They use that tape to mask the frames, I'm not sure what the tape is made of though... could be easy by googling it.
if it would stand up to it, it would be good...I was just thinking about the really thin bridging on some of the letters...though it's a good idea, and it would be really worth asking...
though in fairness to Steve I don't think he would/could guarantee the finish if you masked it up and gave it to him to bake, as each decal would have to be hand cut by you before you put it on, I think you would have trouble with it bleeding still (maybe)defninitely worth asking about though...
-
• #694
Very nice!
Metallic lacquer looks especially nice in the sun.I was surprised such a company doesn't take transactions by card. Armourtex let me pay after the job was done, however.
-
• #695
Does anybody have a frame that was powdercoated RAL 4011 or RAL 4012. I need to find out which RAl color closely resembles this frame:
-
• #696
Following an Armourtex powdercoat does the BB shell need to be chased/faced again, or do they cover this area? Same question for headtube/fork crown, do they need to be faced afterwards to remove excess paint?
-
• #697
Did try to check their website but it appears to be buggered atm.
-
• #698
i painted my frame the other day, looks horrible...... sand and re-spray will be needed
-
• #699
RAL7043 built up
Lovely, aiming for a similar shade myself, something darker though, something more like a gunmetal shade...
-
• #700
I looked at your previous shots though and it actually looks a lot darker out of direct light/ flash... colours often show lighter in photos sometimes... It's a tough one, I want that gunmetal shade you see on lots of BMW's...
anyone offers some respray advice please.
my road bike was mullered in transit (my fault in packing the bike upside down).. so the seatpost has paint chips all around it.. pretty nasty.
can anyone recommend someone who can do a re-spray on a pinarello ?
2 colour, red and white.
any advice is appreciated
thanks