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• #502
Having got back into cycling this year I've decided to dig out my old Peugeot Premiere (1988 I think) from the garage and single speed it for use as a commuter. I've read Sheldon Brown and some threads here but wanted to check I've got things right. I'll be keeping the double chainset until I can afford to replace the cranks, and am hoping to run off the smaller with is 42t. The rear wheel has an atom 77 freewheel on it. I don't think I have the right tool to remove the freewheel so am planning visiting LBS and see if they can swap for a single speed freewheel. I'll then fit a new chain, but what I'm not sure about is how I will get the chainline aligned if the freewheel is screwed on. From the guides I've read on line it looks much more straightforward if you've got a freehub as you just use spacers...
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• #503
Get the wheel re-dished
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• #504
Put on 14T dura-ace sprocket and an 1/8" chain today, and at quarter past 4, went down the road at 40mph.
So thats 99.5 GI, I should be going faster right? -
• #505
Sorry to piggyback this thread, but I've got a Reynolds 531 frame with an aluminium seat post well and truly seized into it... Any ideas?
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• #506
oc4pl try here
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• #507
Almost done. running it single speed just need a brake and some pedals
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• #508
I like that frame, what is the crankset?
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• #509
Almost done. running it single speed just need a brake and some pedals
Don't you mean 2 brakes?
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• #510
I'ts just a standard cheap one off ebay no make or anything
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• #511
Listen to Bike Destroyer. If you're not riding fixed you MUST have 2 brakes. Otherwise it's just plain stupid, not to mention unsafe.
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• #512
don't forget to put it in the back if you intend to ride it with one brake.
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• #513
And to not ride on the road.
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• #514
It's fine if you're running singlespeed with a rear brake only, even though ideally both would be better.
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• #515
Yeah, it's fine AS LONG AS YOU DON'T INTEND TO EVER RIDE IN THE WET! Better be moving to better climates then!
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• #516
lots of singles speeds with just a coaster brake here in Amsterdam, and they do just fine. It's also true that coaster brakes work the same in wet and dry weather.
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• #517
^ Yeah, roads don't.
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• #518
+1.
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• #519
aye, I guess it's fortunate that it doesn't really ever rain much here in A'dam. Sorry for the ignorance lads.
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• #520
Sorry to piggyback in here, new member and I'm now allowed to write threads yet! basically, I have an old Peugeot frame myself, the Premiere (not sure on the number, PY-10 I think), and it still has it's original forks on it! Basically I want to change them for straight forks. Anyone here know off the bat whether it's possible to put brand new forks on a vintage frame? I'm assuming I'll have to buy a new headset and stem to fit the steerer of the new forks. Looking at Charge Whisk forks by the way, cheap and sturdy!
Thanks guys!
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• #521
The Pug will have a 1" fork and headset, and Im pretty sure the Charge whisk forks are 1 1/8".
You can pickup up a new cheap 1" fork off ebay for £15 delivered (just get the right steerer length).
You will also probably need to change the headset, as the thread size is likely to be different (1" tange for under a tenner). -
• #522
The Pug will have a 1" fork and headset, and Im pretty sure the Charge whisk forks are 1 1/8".
You can pickup up a new cheap 1" fork off ebay for £15 delivered (just get the right steerer length).
You will also probably need to change the headset, as the thread size is likely to be different (1" tange for under a tenner).You certain? Can you PM me quick links to those ebay bits please! Thanks
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• #523
sellers name is bankrupt-surplus
eg forks
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/BANKRUPT-700c-RIGID-1-RACING-SPORTS-BIKE-FORKS-BLK-205-/170450423222?cmd=ViewItem&pt=UK_sportsleisure_cycling_bikeparts_SR&hash=item27afa30db6Measure steerer length of your old fork and get the same size (saves the cut down to size hassle)
I bought the tange 1" headset from cyclebasket, but Im sure they are widely available.
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• #524
I have an old Peugeot frame myself, the Premiere (not sure on the number, PY-10 I think), and it still has it's original forks on it! Basically I want to change them for straight forks.
Most new forks will have British Standard threads (24 tpi as opposed to the French metric 25.4 [1 tpmm]) This requires a new headset with the same threading. You can possibly keep the original cups fitted to the head tube to save fitting these, and sub in the new headset parts. The stem will also probably be French size (see Sheldon Brown) and so would need to swapped too. If the handlebars are French, you may need to shim them for a tighter fit in the new stem.
By the way, if this is a 531 Professional fork, then please let me know as I'd be interested in it; I just bent mine on my PY-10 a few days ago in a crash.
Cheers,
Roddy
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• #525
Most new forks will have British Standard threads (24 tpi as opposed to the French metric 25.4 [1 tpmm]) This requires a new headset with the same threading. You can possibly keep the original cups fitted to the head tube to save fitting these, and sub in the new headset parts. The stem will also probably be French size (see Sheldon Brown) and so would need to swapped too. If the handlebars are French, you may need to shim them for a tighter fit in the new stem.
By the way, if this is a 531 Professional fork, then please let me know as I'd be interested in it; I just bent mine on my PY-10 a few days ago in a crash.
Cheers,
Roddy
It has the original quill stem, but I've fitted modern bars to it as I don't like drops - Charge bars if you're interested.
I'm not sure if these are the forks (droids!!) you are looking for? That's The Pug.
with a create bike, you'll end up replacing every single part as time go by, so in essence, by the time you make it road-worthy, the amount you spend would be enough to get a new Charge Plug.