dont buy any bolt tills you get the mount/adapter, and the rotor bolted to the hub (yes torx, and yes so they dont round off, they get a lot of shit thrown at them where they are and you dont want to have to go down the route of hacksaw/angle grinding them off when the allen bolts you decided to dash in there get stuck and round off after one winter). you want to ba able to measure the whole set up so you dont get bolts that are too long and poke through and hit the rotor. obviously you can use spacers and washers but its nicer to do it without..
my lbs has a tin with loads of torx keys in. they do a lot of custom builds and you get another with every set of brakes you buy so i'd be suprised if your lbs wanted to charge you for one.
avid cable discs are amazing, ive used them for years. they can be a pickle to set up so the rotor doesnt rub (especially second hand slightly un true ones) but once its done they carry on nicely for ages. normal cable outer is fine, you'd be wasting money if you went for the posh stuff...
set it all up, loosen the bolts which hold tyhe caliper to the mount, squeeze the brake lever you'll see the caliper move and centre itself. do the bolts back up while still pulling the lever and you'll have a great place to start slight adjustment from. easy pie. i like to set the inside pad the closest it can be and then when the lever is pulled the outside pad moves and the disc hardly flexes at all. ace.
dont forget to GREASE ALL THE BOLTS - ROTOR TO HUB, MOUNT TO FORK, CALIPER TO MOUNT.... and if you get an option at the bike shop when you get your m5's dont get round head (dome head) ones, they are shitter and round easier and have no place anywhere on anything that goes outside...
dont handle the rotor with mucky hands, you'll get grease all over it - bad. if you have new pads they'll be shit for a while till they wear in (or if you do in fact manage to get the rotors mucky and transfer the muck to the pads). best way i have found to wear in pads is this....
steal one small can coke from a superstore of your choice. open. lie your bike on the ground outside, tip half can on the disc/rotor, and the caliper, making sure it goes on the pads too. leave it to dry a little, a few mins is fine. then put ear defenders on and go ride down a slope with your brakes on... squeeeeeeeak. it'll fade and the brakes will be much better. repeat with the other half can or dispose of the rest responsibly (do not drink).
the other method is more dirty and time consuming and involves smearing mud on the rotor. not sandy mud, nice muddy mud, like wet soil mud.
dont buy any bolt tills you get the mount/adapter, and the rotor bolted to the hub (yes torx, and yes so they dont round off, they get a lot of shit thrown at them where they are and you dont want to have to go down the route of hacksaw/angle grinding them off when the allen bolts you decided to dash in there get stuck and round off after one winter). you want to ba able to measure the whole set up so you dont get bolts that are too long and poke through and hit the rotor. obviously you can use spacers and washers but its nicer to do it without..
my lbs has a tin with loads of torx keys in. they do a lot of custom builds and you get another with every set of brakes you buy so i'd be suprised if your lbs wanted to charge you for one.
avid cable discs are amazing, ive used them for years. they can be a pickle to set up so the rotor doesnt rub (especially second hand slightly un true ones) but once its done they carry on nicely for ages. normal cable outer is fine, you'd be wasting money if you went for the posh stuff...
set it all up, loosen the bolts which hold tyhe caliper to the mount, squeeze the brake lever you'll see the caliper move and centre itself. do the bolts back up while still pulling the lever and you'll have a great place to start slight adjustment from. easy pie. i like to set the inside pad the closest it can be and then when the lever is pulled the outside pad moves and the disc hardly flexes at all. ace.
dont forget to GREASE ALL THE BOLTS - ROTOR TO HUB, MOUNT TO FORK, CALIPER TO MOUNT.... and if you get an option at the bike shop when you get your m5's dont get round head (dome head) ones, they are shitter and round easier and have no place anywhere on anything that goes outside...
dont handle the rotor with mucky hands, you'll get grease all over it - bad. if you have new pads they'll be shit for a while till they wear in (or if you do in fact manage to get the rotors mucky and transfer the muck to the pads). best way i have found to wear in pads is this....
steal one small can coke from a superstore of your choice. open. lie your bike on the ground outside, tip half can on the disc/rotor, and the caliper, making sure it goes on the pads too. leave it to dry a little, a few mins is fine. then put ear defenders on and go ride down a slope with your brakes on... squeeeeeeeak. it'll fade and the brakes will be much better. repeat with the other half can or dispose of the rest responsibly (do not drink).
the other method is more dirty and time consuming and involves smearing mud on the rotor. not sandy mud, nice muddy mud, like wet soil mud.
hope this helps..