grip the bars where you feel most secure/in control - firm, but not tense
brake by pumping the lever, instead of holding it constantly 'on' i.e. scrub speed in 10 to 20 metre bursts
progressive braking: don't grab at the lever, but gradually increase pressure if needed (even emergency stops involve progressive braking over a very short period of time)
brake before corners, not in them (but if you misjudge and really have to brake in the corner, use an extremely light touch on the lever)
try to use a 'racing line' i.e. don't enter the corner right on the inside, and start your turn later to cut across the apex
keep your centre of gravity low, and to the rear; arse back, elbows bent and low
relax
Group
let the line of riders string out more than on the flat
if passing, try to do it on the straight, and decisively, with enough time to brake before a corner if necessary
if having to pass on/near a bend, tell the rider you're coming past, and say 'on your right' or 'keep left' or something similar
if you've lost contact on a descent, try to make up ground as the descent flattens out: the quicker you get back on someone's wheel, the quicker you can recover in their slipstream
pass on any messages (shout loudly) about people stopping for junctions, patches of gravel, other hazards
Fixed
you might need to scoot back in the saddle whilst spinning quickly, to maintain a rearward weight balance (practise this on the flat from time to time)
if the high cadence feels too much, trying progressively pushing it (a bit like the braking thing), by 'sprinting into the spin' for a few seconds, then relaxing - you get a sort of adaptation; but if you reach your cadence threshold, start using the front brake in bursts to regain control/comfort
a more scissor-kick pedalling style (rather than up-down, you go forwards-backwards) works for some people in high cadence situations
pedalstrike is very unlikely, but best try to keep the bike fairly upright in corners, and steer by moving your shoulders to the inside
Geared
your front brake still does most of the work
be wary of grabbing too much rear brake in corners; it's worth setting the cable tension looser than the front brake to avoid this
steer with your hips; unlike the fixeurs, you've got loads of body manoeuvrability, and can move your arse (subtly) to the inside whilst coasting - it's much more stable than the shoulders thing you have to do with fixed (and much more fun)
use your 'air brake' on shallower descents: sitting up to catch the wind can work better than your rear brake
Traffic
Never tailgate a motorised vehicle downhill. Their brakes are waaaaaaay better than ours, and they might have to slam them on for all kinds of reasons.
Let's have some descending tips:
General
Group
Fixed
Geared
Traffic
Never tailgate a motorised vehicle downhill. Their brakes are waaaaaaay better than ours, and they might have to slam them on for all kinds of reasons.
That's probably most of it.