Entry Level bike, Create Track 2009 or SE Draft Lite 2010

Seriously, the singlespeed line-up will do the job, all your brother need to do is test ride it, and take his pick.

and Langster does have a flip flop hubs, I suggest the Langster because it would be more comfortable than the Globe, especially on a long distance.

£599 because I have decided to go through the Ride2work scheme which I didn't know I could before. 50% off which means what I pay is £250

can get the previous model Roll (flip-flop inc.) here for £150 less?

http://www.cyclestore.co.uk/productDetails.asp?productID=21785

never seen one in the flesh.

it just goes to show that when people start these kind of threads, they end up ignoring 90% of the advice and making up their own mind anyway. It happens nearly every time.

ARE YOU SERIOUS?

1) Do not get Create/Unipak TOOK ADVICE
2) Draft/create do not buy will cost in long run TOOK ADVICE
Considered FUJI Track
3) As is a track bike ride may be uncomfortable TOOK ADVICE
4) Ride 2 work scheme TOOK ADVICE

Will test ride but would want a 1st choice to go with

The Langster was one of my choices but it doesn't have a flip flop hub. I checked Evans and specs on their website. Am I correct?

No

have a look here

http://www.lfgss.com/thread33767.html#post1325958

I have one and it has served me well thus far. Buuut had I known about this place I might have gone second hand - you will get a better bike for you dosh.

my 2p:
white flak tyres - flak all protection, get some new ones
saddle - not much good for rides over 10miles unless you have an arse of steel
freehub - rubbish - destroyed itself in the rain, get them to put a sealed one on before you leave the shop, or flip it

otherwise i like it .

So the Langster is also a flip/flop. Didn't know that since it there was no indication in the Rear Hub section of its Specs.

Langster has some sound reviews. How does it compare to the Globe Roll 2?

Please can you guys have a look at the below comparison and which one has better components?

Thanks

http://www.evanscycles.com/products-comparison?products=ec019547|ec020354

why don't you ask the people in the bike shop? go in with a list of questions and ask them. Most of them know about components too.

I've read most of the create/unipack thread but tbh I still wasn't sure afterwards.

Some who had owned it said it was decent for its price tag. Others who hadn't owned it said it was rubbish and would injure the rider.

The problem is no one really said what was wrong with it.

Looking at the 2 bikes I would go for the SE Draft Lite but its £100 more expensive. and I would be really annoyed it I spent £100 extra and my brother didn't ride it. He's not an enthusiast, will probably use it 2 or 3 times a week max and probably won't look after it very well.

So.. anything mechanically just really wrong with the Create or Draft?

http://www.winstanleysbikes.co.uk/product/26435/SE_Racing_Draft_Lite_SingleSpeed_Bike_2010

http://www.winstanleysbikes.co.uk/product/27475/Create_SingleSpeed_Track_Bike_2009

first, i read through all of it here and saw you moved away from a potentially big mistake already, but i want to put this down for other lurkers to have it connected to your decision finding process in this thread as well.

i got me one of those unipack/create fully conscious it'll be a bit on the cheap side and to tell the truth, it was much, much worse!
here is whot it takes to get it rideable savely, here is whot came out of it a bit later and let me point out, the last bit, being the frame, broke under my arse due to the wrong size seatpost being installed in the 'factory'.

sure i rode the shit out of it, sure i liked my bike, one get's attached to things you spend so much time thinking about fixing it up and all, but i'd never ever recommend one to a beginner. i'd hesitate to recommend it to a pro with a full set of tools as they are that unsave.

bikes look similar on the outside, but all the money goes into better steel, lighter tubing, quality steel/machined bearings and alloy parts, properly cut threads that hold bolts for critical components as wheels, handlebars and forks, a set of sprockets that are round and parts, that are produced to standards, so that in case of wear and tear are replaceable without replacing half the bike to fit a single standard part on it.

follow the edvices on here, they are good beginner's bikes and give KHS bikes a look as well.

Are you sure you're buying this for your brother and not for you?

This seemed like an awful case of "it's for my friend..."

why don't you ask the people in the bike shop? go in with a list of questions and ask them. Most of them know about components too.

Yeah I'm going to go to two bide shops and ask them after work

Are you sure you're buying this for your brother and not for you?

This seemed like an awful case of "it's for my friend..."

Yep.. .this is definitely some kind of clandestine bike-buying conspiracy that goes RIGHT TO THE TOP!

Yep.. .this is definitely some kind of clandestine bike-buying conspiracy that goes RIGHT TO THE TOP!

I'm actually going to get 2 bikes now, one for myself

it is better because the compenents, whislt basic are better quality, the frame is better quality and the quality control that fuji uses is better quality.

As far as brakes go, people seem to favour a goldfinger lever with a basic shimano brake, a 105 is a pretty good bet.

I have the Fuji Track 2010 (the white one pictured), and I would suggest a Dirt Harry lever unless you like to brake with a single finger (i.e. goldfinger). The 105 is a nice all round brake but I don't rate the brake pads in the wet, I've fitted some Kool Stop dual compound replacement pads.

With the Fuji you will probably also want to change the drop handlebars as they are not very highly regarded and not the most suitable for street riding... After those have been replaced there is a limitless (well until you get to the frame) upgrade path for every component, part of the fun I think... :-)

If you are still considering a globe roll you have to change the seat on it as it is made out of solid plastic. It is painful. very painful.

first, i read through all of it here and saw you moved away from a potentially big mistake already, but i want to put this down for other lurkers to have it connected to your decision finding process in this thread as well.

i got me one of those unipack/create fully conscious it'll be a bit on the cheap side and to tell the truth, it was much, much worse!
here is whot it takes to get it rideable savely, here is whot came out of it a bit later and let me point out, the last bit, being the frame, broke under my arse due to the wrong size seatpost being installed in the 'factory'.

sure i rode the shit out of it, sure i liked my bike, one get's attached to things you spend so much time thinking about fixing it up and all, but i'd never ever recommend one to a beginner. i'd hesitate to recommend it to a pro with a full set of tools as they are that unsave.

bikes look similar on the outside, but all the money goes into better steel, lighter tubing, quality steel/machined bearings and alloy parts, properly cut threads that hold bolts for critical components as wheels, handlebars and forks, a set of sprockets that are round and parts, that are produced to standards, so that in case of wear and tear are replaceable without replacing half the bike to fit a single standard part on it.

follow the edvices on here, they are good beginner's bikes and give KHS bikes a look as well.

These are the new age unipack bike the dodgy guy is selling
http://www.lfgss.com/thread44036.html

If you want a cheap bike go to auction if you can. Lots to choose from but mostly mountain bikes.

Police auctions? From my experience everything is a piece of shit and everyone knows nothing about what the bikes are actually worth, with all of them going for far too much to be called a bargain or even cheap. Anything that is worth any money goes for it's ebay value. Then you pay approx. 30% more in charges and tax over your bid.

Waste of time IMHO.

Police auctions? From my experience everything is a piece of shit and everyone knows nothing about what the bikes are actually worth, with all of them going for far too much to be called a bargain or even cheap. Anything that is worth any money goes for it's ebay value. Then you pay approx. 30% more in charges and tax over your bid.

Waste of time IMHO.

I got a Fuji track for £160 in pristine nick last time out. Most of the stock seems to come from British Rail.

I know you would like an easy life...

and a shiny new bike, and yes I know everything was once 'new'...

however...

the point I am really trying to make is this...

A new bike uses incredible amounts of energy and raw resources to actually create it...it is adding to the whole sale desolation of the planet, just like a new car does... I a city that is filled literally with thousands and thousands of second hand bikes...

It's almost a crime against humanity to buy a new ....anything....

It sounds very melodramatic...though its a very valid point.

Old bikes...on the other hand ...only really need polish and a squirt of oil once a week...and tyres..if he rides it occasionally..maybe as little as oncevery couple of years...

Originally, good quality bicycles that hail from the 50's 60's and 70's...80's even,,that have been well maintained...will last longer than the new bike..

the components are made from better quality materials, and were made to have a longer life...just like the inbuilt obsolesnce that is inherently built into newer cheaper components...

and you are no doubt typing that post on an old second hand computer? :-)

What about this?

http://www.discountbicycles.co.uk/biz/product.php/6604/4657/schwinn_cutter_single_speed/2852d42a872e65dcae89a39dbad61897

I've read good stuff about them on other sites.

looks like a failry good deal for the price. Although I think Jenjen is now after a Colnago C50 Pista kitted out in Campagnolo Pista as the price seems to be inflating all the time :-)

I hate new frames, all this fat carbon and curvy bits. They look like a mineral mine shit out diarrhea and put wheels on it. The simplicity of most track frames or pre 90's road bikes is for the win. Not cussing Jenjen's choice here, you can still get clean modern and not fussy road frames...just saying.

Plus you'll love a restoration, you'll only ever fancy a OTP.

and you are no doubt typing that post on an old second hand computer? :-)

In all fairness...smily face aside...you totally totally missed the point...Why The Flip? are you making any sort of tenous connection between bikes and computers?

there is none..

If I could pick up an 'old' computer that was built in the 70's...that weighed as much, performed as well, was made from better components, had a better resale value.....you see what I am getting at now...

and for your information....my car is 1967...

so go figure...if a computer wasn't deemed obsolete the momnet you took it from the box...yes...I would have a chrome finish computer too...

+1 on don't buy the SE draft lite.
I bought it and have since realised that so much will need replacing. I like riding it, just know that I could have got a much better deal with somthing else.

Wingedangel, no link between bikes and computers no although I don't agree that a computer is immediately obsolete. Until a few months ago I was still happily using an 8 year old eMac.

People want shiny new computers just as they want shiny new bikes/shiny new anything else.

I agree with what you are saying although I don't put it into practice as I am picking up another new bike tomorrow. I am a true product of global consumerism...