Fuck off man... Is this forum here for advice or not? thought somebody might have one...
I've got 1/8" pop rivets and the setting tool, but I'm pretty sure they're not the correct solution to fitting a head badge for two reasons.
1: 1/8" is a pretty big hole to put in your head badge and head tube, much bigger than is necessary to hold it together
2: Pop rivets project a long way behind the rear work-piece, in this case into the inside of the head tube. Enough that your steerer likely won't fit through after riveting, since the clearance between steerer and head tube is only about 1/16"
The correct solution is to make an anvil from 1" diameter solid steel bar, so that when you smack the head of the rivet the entire load is transferred to the anvil, which should be supported from both ends where it projects through the head tube. Ideally, some kind of head forming recess should be indented into the anvil, and even more ideally you'll do the riveting with a toggle press rather than a hammer. The idea is to squash the rivet between the die and the anvil without applying any load to the head tube which could deform it.
Since all this is a big PITA if you're only doing one, why not just Araldite it on, maybe with some fake rivets on the outside if you want to maintain an original appearance?
I've got 1/8" pop rivets and the setting tool, but I'm pretty sure they're not the correct solution to fitting a head badge for two reasons.
1: 1/8" is a pretty big hole to put in your head badge and head tube, much bigger than is necessary to hold it together
2: Pop rivets project a long way behind the rear work-piece, in this case into the inside of the head tube. Enough that your steerer likely won't fit through after riveting, since the clearance between steerer and head tube is only about 1/16"
The correct solution is to make an anvil from 1" diameter solid steel bar, so that when you smack the head of the rivet the entire load is transferred to the anvil, which should be supported from both ends where it projects through the head tube. Ideally, some kind of head forming recess should be indented into the anvil, and even more ideally you'll do the riveting with a toggle press rather than a hammer. The idea is to squash the rivet between the die and the anvil without applying any load to the head tube which could deform it.
Since all this is a big PITA if you're only doing one, why not just Araldite it on, maybe with some fake rivets on the outside if you want to maintain an original appearance?